hasselblad Mon, 30 Oct 2000 Volume 1 : Number 1033 In this issue: Re: SV: 80mm Lens Flare ?? hassy screens and easy focusing SV: 80mm Lens Flare ?? Re: hassy screens and easy focusing Re: SV: 80mm Lens Flare ?? Re: 80mm Lens Flare ?? Re: hassy screens and easy focusing Macro photography questions - Advice Please Non-Hasselblad filters Re: hassy screens and easy focusing Re: Non-Hasselblad filters Copying Re: Non-Hasselblad filters ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 29 Oct 2000 10:07:02 +0200 From: "pcavigliasso@libero.it" To: hasselblad@kelvin.net Cc: hasselblad@kelvin.net Subject: Re: SV: 80mm Lens Flare ?? Message-ID: I recently bought a 500cm and the magasin was not ok so that the first picture I took all had a lighter nouance on the left of the picture and some of them had a longer and thinner line going from across the picture /getting thinner from the left to the middle). After servicing the magasin things are ok. > Hmm it seems to be the same problem i experienced this summer. If it is a > distinct line it is more likely that your magasin needs to be serviced. It > solved my problem. > > /HD > > > > -----Ursprungligt meddelande----- > > Fr=E5n: Hugh Thompson [mailto:painfree@istar.ca] > > Skickat: den 29 oktober 2000 04:00 > > Till: Hasselblad Users Group > > =C4mne: 80mm Lens Flare ?? > > > > > > After some major problems with the shutter speed in my '74 > > vintage lens, now > > fixed by the technician, I have begun to shoot regularly with the 80 lens, > > but have come across the dreaded flare. I have the short plastic > > hood, and > > thought it would be sufficient, but when the sun is to the side I get a > > blast of streaks and white overexposure across the lens. It ends in what > > seems to be a line 3/4 across the print. What I am going to do > > is to set up > > my diffuser umbrella to intersect the light crossing the lens, and see if > > this works. However I hate to experiment with paying customers, do any of > > you have some experience with this problem? Would it be solved with a > > pro-shade? Problem there is that the price for a good one can be $300 I > > understand. For now I am going to try to intersect the intense > > light across > > the front of the lens, or find some shade. > > > > Your comments would be appreciated, thanks - Hugh Thompson > > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > > The Hasselblad Users Group Listserv is a public service of > > Absolute Internet, Inc., which is not responsible for its > > content. This mailing list is in no way affiliated with Victor > > Hasselblad AB, it's subsidiaries, or affiliates. > > > > To change your subscription status, go to: > > http://mail.kelvin.net/guest/RemoteListSummary/Hasselblad > > Digest archives are stored at http://www.kelvin.net/hasselblad/hassy.htm > > Searchable archives can be found at > > http://www.listquest.com/arts/index.html > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > The Hasselblad Users Group Listserv is a public service of Absolute Internet, Inc., which is not responsible for its content. This mailing list is in no way affiliated with Victor Hasselblad AB, it's subsidiaries, or affiliates. > > To change your subscription status, go to: http://mail.kelvin.net/guest/RemoteListSummary/Hasselblad > Digest archives are stored at http://www.kelvin.net/hasselblad/hassy.htm > Searchable archives can be found at http://www.listquest.com/arts/index.html > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 29 Oct 2000 10:19:00 +0200 From: "pcavigliasso@libero.it" To: hasselblad@kelvin.net Subject: hassy screens and easy focusing Message-ID: I'm new on this list as I recently bought an Hasselblad (it had been a sort of dream since I was a student). I have now made some experience on it but what is still difficult for me is to focus accurately in a short time (when I take pictures to children or animals I often "miss the moment"). My question are: 1.if I change to one of those acute matte split image screen thing are going to be much better? (I use by now the standard screen (not acute matte) 2. If I buy another screen (new or second hand) what screen are suggestable for the easiest focusing ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 29 Oct 2000 11:18:44 +0100 From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?ULF_SJ=D6GREN?= To: Subject: SV: 80mm Lens Flare ?? Message-ID: <001301c04191$9e673080$497c97d4@s101194> In my opinion all shades except tho pro type should be avioded -for all = cameas and lenses. They are extremely effective, small when folded and = fit all lenses from Biogon 38 mm up to Sonnar 250. So why bother with = the others? Ulf ----- Ursprungligt meddelande -----=20 Fr=E5n: "Hugh Thompson" Till: "Hasselblad Users Group" Skickat: den 29 oktober 2000 03:59 =C4mne: 80mm Lens Flare ?? > After some major problems with the shutter speed in my '74 vintage = lens, now > fixed by the technician, I have begun to shoot regularly with the 80 = lens, > but have come across the dreaded flare. I have the short plastic = hood, and > thought it would be sufficient, but when the sun is to the side I get = a > blast of streaks and white overexposure across the lens. It ends in = what > seems to be a line 3/4 across the print. What I am going to do is to = set up > my diffuser umbrella to intersect the light crossing the lens, and see = if > this works. However I hate to experiment with paying customers, do = any of > you have some experience with this problem? Would it be solved with a > pro-shade? Problem there is that the price for a good one can be $300 = I > understand. For now I am going to try to intersect the intense light = across > the front of the lens, or find some shade. >=20 > Your comments would be appreciated, thanks - Hugh Thompson >=20 > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- >=20 > The Hasselblad Users Group Listserv is a public service of Absolute = Internet, Inc., which is not responsible for its content. This mailing = list is in no way affiliated with Victor Hasselblad AB, it's = subsidiaries, or affiliates. >=20 > To change your subscription status, go to: = http://mail.kelvin.net/guest/RemoteListSummary/Hasselblad > Digest archives are stored at = http://www.kelvin.net/hasselblad/hassy.htm > Searchable archives can be found at = http://www.listquest.com/arts/index.html >=20 ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 29 Oct 2000 04:54:25 -0800 From: "Peter Klosky" To: , Subject: Re: hassy screens and easy focusing Message-ID: You don't say what model you have now, but if it is a 500C or 500C/M or = 500 ELM without an Acute Matte, you are missing a great opportunity. Yes, = the Acute Matte, and the late model Acute Matte D with split image and = grid, work better. Another thing to seriously consider is if your body = has good focus. Measure ten feet from a wall, then focus, then read your = lens. If it doesn't read ten feet, consider service. >>> pcavigliasso@libero.it 10/29/00 03:19AM >>> I'm new on this list as I recently bought an Hasselblad (it had been a sort of dream since I was a student). I have now made some experience on it but what is still difficult for me is to focus accurately in a short time (when I take pictures to children or animals I often "miss the moment"). My question are: 1.if I change to one of those acute matte split image screen thing are going to be much better? (I use by now the standard screen (not acute matte) 2. If I buy another screen (new or second hand) what screen are suggestable for the easiest focusing ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 29 Oct 2000 04:58:01 -0800 From: "Peter Klosky" To: Cc: Subject: Re: SV: 80mm Lens Flare ?? Message-ID: You know, at least the 500C/M has easy to change focus screens. Often, a = leak in the mag where the dark slide goes in can be detected by holding = the mag so that the dark slide opening is toward the light, and you can = see light coming through. Go to any camera show to see backs that are = bad. Easy to fix. >>> pcavigliasso@libero.it 10/29/00 03:07AM >>> I recently bought a 500cm ... ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 29 Oct 2000 05:01:41 -0800 From: "Peter Klosky" To: , Subject: Re: 80mm Lens Flare ?? Message-ID: Your '74 lens should accept both the $300 shade which folds, and the $100 = shade known as the "early shade." The early model does not fold, but it = still has the bellows and works the same. You can buy one on eBay. You = could always do like Ansel Adams and use your hat as a shade. >>> painfree@istar.ca 10/28/00 10:59PM >>> After some major problems with the shutter speed in my '74 vintage lens, = now fixed by the technician, I have begun to shoot regularly with the 80 lens, but have come across the dreaded flare. I have the short plastic hood, = and thought it would be sufficient, but when the sun is to the side I get a blast of streaks and white overexposure across the lens. It ends in what seems to be a line 3/4 across the print. What I am going to do is to set = up my diffuser umbrella to intersect the light crossing the lens, and see if this works. However I hate to experiment with paying customers, do any of you have some experience with this problem? Would it be solved with a pro-shade? Problem there is that the price for a good one can be $300 I understand. For now I am going to try to intersect the intense light = across the front of the lens, or find some shade. Your comments would be appreciated, thanks - Hugh Thompson ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 29 Oct 2000 14:49:09 +0100 From: "Q.G. de Bakker" To: Subject: Re: hassy screens and easy focusing Message-ID: <000a01c041af$05194bc0$b3e7f1c3@qnu99> Peter Klosky wrote: > [...] Another thing to seriously consider is if your body has good focus. Measure ten feet from a wall, then focus, then read your lens. If it doesn't read ten feet, consider service. > And make sure to measure *from the film plane mark* on the magazine to the wall. If you don't, you might think you're 1/3 to 1/2 ft out, even when you're not. But this method probably is far to coarse to detect anything but very serious focussing errors anyway. Place of series of markers on a straight line. Mark the middle one as "0", and the others as + or - the distance from the "0"-marker. Set you're camera up with its line of sight along the line of these markers (you might want to offset the markers so they don't obscure each other, while keeping their distance along the line of sight constant), then carefully (!) set focus on the "0"-marker. Take a picture, have it developed, and see where (and how far in front or behind the set focus) the actual plane of focus really was. Obviously, smaller intervals between the markers will give more precise results. If you have a focussing screen adapter (those things that fit to the back of the camera), you can easily compare focus on the 'regular' focussing screen to focus on the screen placed in the film plane. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 29 Oct 2000 09:00:01 -0600 From: Amr Ibrahim To: hasselblad@kelvin.net Subject: Macro photography questions - Advice Please Message-ID: <001a01c041b8$ea398540$2c54d840@dsl> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0017_01C04186.9F0FA680 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Good Friends: I am considering buying bellows in order to do macro work as well as to = copy slides. The later objective is a response to the excessively high = prices here in Houston to copy a medium format slide to medium format dupe; it = is between $25 and $30 per slide. A third objective--I hope--is also to = obtain positive monochrome slides from monochrome negatives. The question is to what extent can the produced monochrome slide can be compared with Agfa Scala film; there is a modest cost advantage from copying. I would appreciate comments and advice from the experts on: 1) = the preferred monochrome film for copying, and 2) Is the T* designation for = the Hasselblad 135 in the context of copying is that important? Very many thanks, and best regards AI ------=_NextPart_000_0017_01C04186.9F0FA680 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Good Friends:

I am considering = buying=20 bellows in order to do macro work as well as to copy
slides.  = The later=20 objective is a response to the excessively high prices
here in = Houston to=20 copy a medium format slide to medium format dupe; it is
between $25 = and $30=20 per slide.  A third objective--I hope--is also to = obtain
positive=20 monochrome slides from monochrome negatives.

The question is to = what=20 extent can the produced monochrome slide can be
compared with Agfa = Scala=20 film; there is a modest cost advantage from
copying.  I would = appreciate=20 comments and advice from the experts on: 1) the
preferred monochrome = film for=20 copying, and 2) Is the T* designation for the
Hasselblad 135 in the = context=20 of copying is that important?

Very many thanks, and best=20 regards

AI


------=_NextPart_000_0017_01C04186.9F0FA680-- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 29 Oct 2000 11:31:04 EST From: Jlaird@aol.com To: hasselblad@kelvin.net Subject: Non-Hasselblad filters Message-ID: <9c.8953ce7.272daac8@aol.com> Do the B+W, Heliopan, Hoya and Tiffen filters (B60) have the front bayonet for stacking filters or applying the lens cap like the Hasselblad filters? I've searched their websites and can't find out if they do or not. Jim Laird ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 29 Oct 2000 17:31:27 -0800 From: "Peter Klosky" To: , Subject: Re: hassy screens and easy focusing Message-ID: Q. G., In my opinion, some tests work for some people, others for other people. = In the case of the 500C/M body I had that was out of focus, a film test = similar to what you describe was inconclusive. What I did was focus on = the 50cm mark of a 1 meter ruler stick. The technique of focusing on a target at a measured distance has worked = much better for me. I find that I can read the distance scale to about = the 2 to 3 inch distance. If the focus is out, say, six inches or a foot, = the distance measuring technique is adequate to detect it. If you have = several bodies and lenses to compare, it's easier. I'm not saying your technique won't work, just that it didn't work for me. = A couple of variations of this technique that have worked a little better = for me than the ruler stick are the chalk mark on the brick wall at an = angle, and a target on a grass lawn. And a number of folks here like the = ruler stick at an angle; I just couldn't get it to work. I'm not sure you've used the distance scales much in your work, if you = suspect that focus obtained by measuring would be "too coarse." I = estimate distance on the job quite often, and measure it on occasion, and = find that a focus by distance scale can work quite well. For example, = sometimes I'll focus a group and read ten feet on the scale, but suspect = they are really at 12 feet. Then I'll focus more carefully, and read 12 = feet. After doing this enough times, I decided that in my personal case, = I was better off with the distance scale. About the only shots I focus = through the viewfinder are head shots and details. I suspect your = technique is just a little different. Of course you are correct that = measuring from the film plane is what would apply. Peter >>> "Q.G. de Bakker" 10/29/00 08:49AM >>> Peter Klosky wrote: > [...] Another thing to seriously consider is if your body has good = focus. Measure ten feet from a wall, then focus, then read your lens. If it doesn't read ten feet, consider service. > And make sure to measure *from the film plane mark* on the magazine to the wall. If you don't, you might think you're 1/3 to 1/2 ft out, even when you're not. But this method probably is far to coarse to detect anything but very serious focussing errors anyway. Place of series of markers on a straight line. Mark the middle one as "0", and the others as + or - the distance from the "0"-marker. Set you're = camera up with its line of sight along the line of these markers (you might want = to offset the markers so they don't obscure each other, while keeping their distance along the line of sight constant), then carefully (!) set focus = on the "0"-marker. Take a picture, have it developed, and see where (and how far in front or behind the set focus) the actual plane of focus really = was. Obviously, smaller intervals between the markers will give more precise results. If you have a focussing screen adapter (those things that fit to the back = of the camera), you can easily compare focus on the 'regular' focussing = screen to focus on the screen placed in the film plane. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 29 Oct 2000 17:34:27 -0800 From: "Peter Klosky" To: , Subject: Re: Non-Hasselblad filters Message-ID: Jim, In general, yes. I'm not sure if I have the Hoya or the Tiffen, but it's = been great. Many, many folks require a lens cap. Peter >>> Jlaird@aol.com 10/29/00 11:31AM >>> Do the B+W, Heliopan, Hoya and Tiffen filters (B60) have the front = bayonet=20 for stacking filters or applying the lens cap like the Hasselblad = filters?=20 I've searched their websites and can't find out if they do or not. Jim Laird ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 29 Oct 2000 17:42:00 -0800 From: "Peter Klosky" To: , Subject: Copying Message-ID: Al, Just one general comment. I've been buying copy negatives from color = prints for a while, and find that the quality of the result is all over = the place. My current lab does a really bad job. I had them make some = wallet prints from medium format recently, and they shot some 35mm color = neg film, very badly. The contrast was increased, and the color saturation= reduced. Just horrible work. Making a copy is hard. Using the proper = film, lighting, exposure and development takes a good deal of training and = experience. A fellow who used to make copy negatives for me did a good = job. His copies were so excellent that we often joked they where better = than the original. Looking back, they probably were. He moved to Miami = to sell boats. He got an excellent price for his photo shop. Peter ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 29 Oct 2000 21:06:25 EST From: JCurcio@aol.com To: hasselblad@kelvin.net Subject: Re: Non-Hasselblad filters Message-ID: I have the B+W. Wonderful filters and maybe 1/3 the price of the Hassy ones. They have the bayonet mounts. You CAN stack filters and a cap. ------------------------------ End of hasselblad V1 #1033 ************************** ---------------------------------------------------------------------- The Hasselblad Users Group Listserv is a public service of Absolute Internet, Inc., which is not responsible for its content. This mailing list is in no way affiliated with Victor Hasselblad AB, it's subsidiaries, or affiliates. To change your subscription status, go to: http://mail.kelvin.net/guest/RemoteListSummary/Hasselblad Digest archives are stored at http://www.kelvin.net/hasselblad/hassy.htm Searchable archives can be found at http://www.listquest.com/arts/index.html