hasselblad Thu, 26 Apr 2001 Volume 1 : Number 1208 In this issue: 70mm Film in the UK flash tips Re: flash tips Re: flash tips Re: flash tips Re: flash tips Re: flash tips this week RE: 70mm Film in the UK RE: flash tips/digital labs Best enlarging lens (80mm) Re: 70mm Film in the UK Dick Werner's new Manual Re: flash tips ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 09:01:49 -0700 From: "brianbushell" To: Subject: 70mm Film in the UK Message-ID: <001001c0cda5$c6f644a0$0afea8c0@btopenworld.com> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000D_01C0CD66.5CA8D2A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I'm sure this thread has been addressed before, but does anyone know = what 70mm film is available in the UK and where best to buy it? Brian Bushell ------=_NextPart_000_000D_01C0CD66.5CA8D2A0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I'm sure this thread has been addressed = before, but=20 does anyone know what 70mm film is available in the UK and where best to = buy=20 it?

Brian = Bushell

------=_NextPart_000_000D_01C0CD66.5CA8D2A0-- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 13:23:44 -0400 (EDT) From: Shane W Davis To: hasselblad@kelvin.net Subject: flash tips Message-ID: I would appreciate some guidance on using manual flash. Last weekend I tried using my 501CM as a "street camera" for the first time, photographing some skateboarders. My flash has the usual ISO/distance/aperture chart on the back. When I set the flash for the film speed I was using, this chart indicated f8 at 10 feet. I've never had an instruction manual for this thing, but I took that to mean that the flash would give correct illumination of subjects at 10 feet at that aperture and film speed. I shot a sequence of pictures at about 5 feet from the subjects, and set the lens at f16. The pictures look uniformly underexposed by a stop or so. What should I have done? More generally, how do I calculate correct settings other than the ones that happen to be on the little chart? Any tips on using flash with this beast are welcome. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 13:36:16 -0400 From: "Peter Klosky" To: Subject: Re: flash tips Message-ID: <001001c0cdae$3ed42cf0$230a210a@dulles> Shane, A little more info would help, if available. In fact, assembling this data would probably help your situation. In detail, what film did you use? What flash did you use? Did the flash have any modifier attached, or was the head pointed directly at the subjects, without any spreader? Was the flash on full power, or a fractional setting? >From a high level, if you are getting one stop under, you might want to give one more stop exposure in future, in the same situation. Do you have a decent flash meter, or can you borrow one? This tool can be a big help for "dialing in" a precise exposure. It also saves time. Similarly, do you have a Polaroid back? Are you familiar with the "Guide Number" calculation? In this case, you multiply the flash-to-subject distance by the f-stop to give a guide number. It sounds like you know this, as you have f8 x 10 similar to f16 x 5. This varies depending on the room reflectivity, btw. Peter ----- Original Message ----- From: "Shane W Davis" To: Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2001 1:23 PM Subject: flash tips > I would appreciate some guidance on using manual flash. Last weekend I > tried using my 501CM as a "street camera" for the first time, > photographing some skateboarders. My flash has the usual > ISO/distance/aperture chart on the back. When I set the flash for the > film speed I was using, this chart indicated f8 at 10 feet. I've never > had an instruction manual for this thing, but I took that to mean that the > flash would give correct illumination of subjects at 10 feet at that > aperture and film speed. I shot a sequence of pictures at about 5 feet > from the subjects, and set the lens at f16. The pictures look uniformly > underexposed by a stop or so. > > What should I have done? More generally, how do I calculate correct > settings other than the ones that happen to be on the little chart? Any > tips on using flash with this beast are welcome. > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > The Hasselblad Users Group Listserv is a public service of Absolute Internet, Inc., which is not responsible for its content. This mailing list is in no way affiliated with Victor Hasselblad AB, it's subsidiaries, or affiliates. > > Please turn off HTML mail features prior to posting to this list. Use text mode only. > > To change your subscription status, go to: http://mail.kelvin.net/guest/RemoteListSummary/Hasselblad > Digest archives are stored at http://www.kelvin.net/hasselblad/hassy.htm > Searchable archives can be found at http://www.listquest.com/arts/index.html > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 10:40:50 -0700 From: Mark Rabiner To: hasselblad@kelvin.net Subject: Re: flash tips Message-ID: <3AE70C21.CAD46B03@rabiner.cncoffice.com> Shane W Davis wrote: > > I would appreciate some guidance on using manual flash. Last weekend I > tried using my 501CM as a "street camera" for the first time, > photographing some skateboarders. My flash has the usual > ISO/distance/aperture chart on the back. When I set the flash for the > film speed I was using, this chart indicated f8 at 10 feet. I've never > had an instruction manual for this thing, but I took that to mean that the > flash would give correct illumination of subjects at 10 feet at that > aperture and film speed. I shot a sequence of pictures at about 5 feet > from the subjects, and set the lens at f16. The pictures look uniformly > underexposed by a stop or so. > > What should I have done? More generally, how do I calculate correct > settings other than the ones that happen to be on the little chart? Any > tips on using flash with this beast are welcome. > First i use a flash meter and test the readings on my Norman 200C at 10 feet, 5 feet and other distances. Then i shoot some film bracketing at these readings. In the past i even would make some test prints to make sure i was picking the right brackets. Color neg film especially can be deceptive. Betwixt the two of them i come up with my own chart. Be aware of the effect of high ambient light on your readings as in outdoors. I'll test my flashes readings outside as well as inside. Mark Rabiner Portland, Oregon USA http://www.rabiner.cncoffice.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 20:03:24 +0200 From: "Q.G. de Bakker" To: Subject: Re: flash tips Message-ID: <02d501c0cdb2$07c38220$9be4f1c3@qnu350> Shane W Davis wrote: > I would appreciate some guidance on using manual flash. Last weekend I > tried using my 501CM as a "street camera" for the first time, > photographing some skateboarders. My flash has the usual > ISO/distance/aperture chart on the back. When I set the flash for the > film speed I was using, this chart indicated f8 at 10 feet. I've never > had an instruction manual for this thing, but I took that to mean that the > flash would give correct illumination of subjects at 10 feet at that > aperture and film speed. I shot a sequence of pictures at about 5 feet > from the subjects, and set the lens at f16. The pictures look uniformly > underexposed by a stop or so. > > What should I have done? More generally, how do I calculate correct > settings other than the ones that happen to be on the little chart? Any > tips on using flash with this beast are welcome. If the table says f/8 at 10 feet, the flash's guide number is 80. Divide the distance to your subject into this guide number, and the result will be the aperture to set. For instance, 5 feet distance: 80/5 = 16. So f/16 should have been correct. But guide numbers are "calculated" assuming indoor use, i.e. plenty of reflecting surfaces around. Outdoors you will have to do without these, so correcting the guide number calculated aperture by one stop will be about right. So f/11 should be right for 5 feet outdoors. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 14:29:18 -0400 (EDT) From: Shane W Davis To: hasselblad@kelvin.net Subject: Re: flash tips Message-ID: The flash is an old Osram C250 Studio with no attachments. The head was pointed at the subjects, there being nothing to bounce off of. The underexposed film was Tmax 100; I had shot some on Tmax 400 and those all are correctly exposed. (To the obvious question: yes, I did remember to reset the ASA on the flash when I switched films from 400 to 100.) The flash has three settings: Auto I, Auto II, and M. I and II seem to be two stops apart; i.e. I tells you to use to use f4 where II says f2 for the same film speed. On the "M" setting there is no indication of aperture, and I suppose here one is invited to use the guide number formula. Presumably the guide number is calculable from the I and II settings.... or is it? I have no flash meter or Polaroid back. I have been tempted to get the latter, but as the last pro-lab in my city has promised to "go completely digital" by summer, I've been reluctant to invest in more equipment. I have no darkroom space and am not sure about the future of my photography, which I usually do just for pleasure, given my dependence on disappearing resources. On Wed, 25 Apr 2001, Peter Klosky wrote: > Shane, > > A little more info would help, if available. In fact, assembling this data > would probably help your situation. In detail, what film did you use? What etc ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 15:04:37 -0400 From: "Peter Klosky" To: Subject: Re: flash tips Message-ID: <000a01c0cdba$92d5f340$230a210a@dulles> Shane, It sounds like Auto I and Auto II are two auto power levels, with Auto I being higher power. Yes, you can often roughly guess the GN by multiplying the max distance and f-stop off the auto scales. It's interesting that you say your lab is "going digital." We have some of the same trouble in my area. Just yesterday, I stopped by a new lab, Abbey Camera, and asked what size prints they can make from 6x6 negs. They can make 5" x 5", and that's it. No 8" x 10", no wallets, no posters, no locket prints, just 5" x 5". It is very unfortunate that the technology to make decent prints has been lost. The last decent printer I used had a very simple rig. A Bessler 23C with a color head, and a 16" print processor. The entire rig was worth about $3000 on today's market. The way he would make an 8" x 10" was to orient an easel under the enlarger, adjusting its location and the degree of enlargement to suit my instructions. Often, for full length portraits, I'd request that he allow 1/2" all around. If the picture contained a bride in white, he'd routinely burn in the dress. He'd also routinely burn in the sky. His test strips were narrow and economical. Once or twice a year, with certain backlit portraits, he'd dodge the face. He was able to work quickly, due to using two or more enlargers at once. In contrast, today's printer of choice is an integrated unit that costs about thirty times as much, $150000. And they often come with very few lenses. In order to make a range of prints from wallet to 11x14, as many as four or five lenses may be required, each costing in the $3500 to $5000 range, which is more for each one than an entire "classic" rig. The resulting prints are low in quality. It is not possible to dodge or burn, and the crop can not be easily manipulated, if at all. They are highly wasteful of paper, requiring at least one full sheet for a test, often larger when leader is considered. The range of print sizes produced is narrow and coarse. The root of the problem looks to be labor cost. Getting decent help to make prints at a low price is getting more difficult, it would seem. Customers like me are starting to get frustrated. At least two of the "classic" rigs have gone away, and the owners of the lab say "we've made a decision to go digital." I don't know what this means. Once, my lab, without instruction from me, scanned one of my negs which they had folded in loading. The result was horrible, and I felt sorry for them for having wasted their time on such a stupid project. I just threw the print away, as I had another similar shot to deliver, and I wasn't interested in presenting all the digital artifacts to my client. Peter ----- Original Message ----- From: "Shane W Davis" To: Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2001 2:29 PM Subject: Re: flash tips > The flash is an old Osram C250 Studio with no attachments. The head was > pointed at the subjects, there being nothing to bounce off of. The > underexposed film was Tmax 100; I had shot some on Tmax 400 and those all > are correctly exposed. (To the obvious question: yes, I did remember to > reset the ASA on the flash when I switched films from 400 to 100.) > > The flash has three settings: Auto I, Auto II, and M. I and II seem to be > two stops apart; i.e. I tells you to use to use f4 where II says f2 for > the same film speed. On the "M" setting there is no indication of > aperture, and I suppose here one is invited to use the guide number > formula. Presumably the guide number is calculable from the I and II > settings.... or is it? > > I have no flash meter or Polaroid back. I have been tempted to get the > latter, but as the last pro-lab in my city has promised to "go completely > digital" by summer, I've been reluctant to invest in more equipment. I > have no darkroom space and am not sure about the future of my photography, > which I usually do just for pleasure, given my dependence on disappearing > resources. > > On Wed, 25 Apr 2001, Peter Klosky wrote: > > > Shane, > > > > A little more info would help, if available. In fact, assembling this data > > would probably help your situation. In detail, what film did you use? What > > etc > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > The Hasselblad Users Group Listserv is a public service of Absolute Internet, Inc., which is not responsible for its content. This mailing list is in no way affiliated with Victor Hasselblad AB, it's subsidiaries, or affiliates. > > Please turn off HTML mail features prior to posting to this list. Use text mode only. > > To change your subscription status, go to: http://mail.kelvin.net/guest/RemoteListSummary/Hasselblad > Digest archives are stored at http://www.kelvin.net/hasselblad/hassy.htm > Searchable archives can be found at http://www.listquest.com/arts/index.html > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 15:30:32 -0400 From: Henry Posner/B&H Photo-Video To: Hasselblad Digest Subject: this week Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20010425151425.00c7e780@bnhpop1.bhphotovideo.com> NEW The following Hasselblad items are available from B&H Photo-Video. They can be reached via photo@bhphotovideo.com Phone: 800 606-6969 or 212 444-6615 Fax: 212 239-7770 501C/M Body $1549.95 503CW Body $1849.99 160mm f/4.8 CB Tessar Lens $2369.99 60/3.5 CB Distagon Lens $1999.95 A12 Film Back $716.99 SPECIALS 10% off three or more Tiffen Filters 10% off three or more Hoya Filters 5% off three or more B+W Filters DIGEST MEMBERS ONLY Lindahl Dark Slide Keeper for Hasselblad backs $15.00/each, or $12.50 each when you order three (3) or more. This is NOT in our database and our sales associates don't know about it -- mention MY name. :-) The following Hasselblad items are available from the B&H Used Photo Department. They can be reached via usedphoto@bhphotovideo.com Phone: 800 606-6969 or 212 444-6615, extension 2700 Fax: 212 239-7540 DEMO -- DOES NOT QUALIFY FOR REBATES 1 YEAR WARRANTY Most with boxes, owners literature, Hasselblad warranties 503 CW $1480.00 903 SWC $4109.00 501 CM $1245.00 Arc Body $2199.00 555 ELD $2350.00 FLEX CP $1830.00 1.4 PC Mutar $2613.00 APO 1.4 XE FOR 350MM $939.00 35/4.5 Grandogon $2030.00 75/4.5 Grandagon $2393.00 PM-90 $535.00 PME-90 $985.00 D-FLASH 40 $339.00 0/4 CFE $3169.00 50/4 CFI $2159.00 60/3.5 CB $1645.00 160/4.8 CB $1889.00 100/3.5 CFI $1985.00 120/4 CFI Macro $2220.00 135/5.6 Macro $1985.00 150/4 CFI $2209.00 180/4 CFI $2375.00 250/5.6 CFI $2465.00 250/5.6 CFI Super Achromat $3985.00 140-280/5.6 CF $5199.00 30/3.5 CFI $4599.00 A-32 $756.00 A-16 $655.00 1.4E X $859.00 2XE $1032.00 DEMO 3 YEAR WARRANTY -- NO REBATES Most with boxes, owners literature, Hasselblad warranties 205 FCC BODY $5540.00 202 FA $2519.00 203FE $4249.00 250/4 FE $2775.00 350/4 FE $6249.00 E-12 CC BACK $947.00 USED 500 ELM body 8+ $450.00 500 C body 8+ $399.00 553 ELX blk body 9+ $1800.00 PC Mutar1.4x w case 9+ $1500.00 160/4.8 cb 10 $1599.00 250/5.6 chr 8+ $999.95 350/5.6 blk 9 $1500.00 350/5.6 blk t star 9 $1800.00 Extension Tube #55 8+ $150.00 Meter Knob 9 $49.00 Spirit Level 9 $40.00 FK-30 release cord 9 $10.00 A-16 S back 9 $100.00 70 back 9 $200.00 70mm cass set of 2 $20.00 Neck Strap $20.00 LK-500 ext. cable 9 $25.00 12 back 8+ $100.00 Pol.88 back 8 $25.00 B-50 cb-1.5 (82a) $15.00 120/5.6 S planar blk 8+ $1000.00 100/3.5 blk 8+ $1000.00 135/5.6 s planar 9 $1000.00 Pistol Grip 8+ $59.00 Quick Focus Handle #2 8+ $$25.00 500 CM body 8+ $499.00 150/4 chrome 8+ $999.00 Flash Gun Bracket (old style) 8 $125.00 Winder -TCC-FCW 8+ $499.00 Magnifying Hood (old style) 8+ $89.00 B-50 filters all 8+-9 cond CB-12 (80b) $15.00 CB-3 (82c) $15.00 CR-12(85) $15.00 Multiprism 5 $80.00 Yellowgreen $15.00 Used Photo merchandise comes with a 90-day warranty, and may be returned within 14 days for a full refund (less shipping). We oppose commercialization of the Digest and look forward with eager anticipation to the sanity of a digest free of this sort of thing. -- regards, Henry Posner Director of Sales and Training B&H Photo-Video, and Pro-Audio Inc. http://www.bhphotovideo.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 00:01:58 +0200 From: "Eduard Crombie" To: Subject: RE: 70mm Film in the UK Message-ID: > I'm sure this thread has been addressed before, > but does anyone know what 70mm film is available > in the UK and where best to buy it? > > Brian Bushell Brian, I've been searching the sites of Kodak and Agfa for 70mm roll formats. Agfa has some Chrome duplicating film and several Aero photography emulsions on 70mm. Kodak has a somewhat larger assortment of B&W, Chrome and Colour Negative films in 70mm roll. All are qualified as 'professional' grade, so I think they will be special order. I use several large on-line dealers in Germany and none of them have these films in stock. If you can't order directly from Kodak it would be best to look for a Kodak Pro dealer or any pro photographer in Britain and try to order via them. Quantity might be problem. HTH, Kind regards, Eduard Crombie Dendermonde, Belgium. P.S. I'll try to compile a list of the emulsions with their catalogue numbers I encountered in this search and send it on to you. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 15:10:05 -0700 From: "bradley hanson" To: Subject: RE: flash tips/digital labs Message-ID: I'm curious where is this happening? I guess I'm lucky that the Seattle area is still providing full support for film based photographers, while still providing digital services to those who require it. My two favorite all B&W labs still print on my paper of choice, using my film developer of choice, and the other local labs are still doing a huge business with film. As Peter has suggested, perhaps a labor shortage might be behind these premature migrations, although it's possible that it's actually based on their respective perceptions of their own client's services of choice. (ie: dwindling orders by clients from negs/chromes). I see a lot of people using digital services like retouching, scanning and printing, but very few people, particularly with medium format, shooting digitally. I have nothing against digital photography, and scan nearly all my film anyway. While digital backs offer great possibilities, especially for wedding photographers who would like to present clients with images while the "iron is still hot", the costs are still prohibitive, and I for one still fear buying tomorrow's paperweight for $23,000. b r a d l e y h a n s o n Seattle, WA http://www.hansonphotography.com > -----Original Message----- > From: Peter Klosky [mailto:peter.klosky@marcgs.com] > Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2001 12:05 PM > To: hasselblad@kelvin.net > Subject: Re: flash tips > > It's interesting that you say your lab is "going digital." We > have some of > the same trouble in my area. Just yesterday, I stopped by a new > lab, Abbey > Camera, and asked what size prints they can make from 6x6 negs. They can > make 5" x 5", and that's it. No 8" x 10", no wallets, no > posters, no locket > prints, just 5" x 5". It is very unfortunate that the technology to make > decent prints has been lost. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 00:58:36 +0200 From: imagecom@EUnet.yu To: hasselblad@kelvin.net Subject: Best enlarging lens (80mm) Message-ID: Best enlarging lens Hello, I have a question regarding Rodenstock Rodagon 80mm /4.0 How does it compare with the componon-S, since the prices are very close, just a few dollars difference. Is it as good as Schneider? Does it cover both 6x6 and 6x7? Thanks Mike ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 01:20:00 +0200 From: "Q.G. de Bakker" To: Subject: Re: 70mm Film in the UK Message-ID: <059b01c0cdde$5e791040$9be4f1c3@qnu350> brianbushell wrote: >> I'm sure this thread has been addressed before, but does anyone know what 70mm film is available in the UK and where best to buy it? << I wondered about availabilty of 70 mm film in Europe as well. So i asked Kodak, Fuji and Agfa. I did not get a respons from Agfa. Fuji said they only had a Slide Duplicating film, without mentioning further details. Kodak sent me an Excell sheet listing the emulsions available at that time (May 2000). All film is available only in long rolls, mostly 100ft. Preloaded cassettes (15 ft) are no longer sold by Kodak. Films available from stock are the Portra 160 NC and 400 VC, a slide duplicating film, and a holography film. All other films are listed as non-stock items. These include Ektachrome 64 and E100S slide films, and Plus-X-Pan Prof.2147, T-Max 100 Prof., Tri-X Pan Prof., and T-Max 400 Prof. B&W films. Term of delivery of all non-stock films is said to be 6 to 8 weeks. They should be available from any good pro-shop, or (since they too most likely will have to order) direct from Kodak. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 21:32:04 -0400 From: Marc S Reubins MD To: hasselblad@kelvin.net Subject: Dick Werner's new Manual Message-ID: <001201c0cdf0$b2f63960$4597b918@spec.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --Boundary_(ID_M18Ui+i3Dfu82NpbOBtMuw) Content-type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT I just received Dick's new manual. Those who have his one on Hassy back will really appreciate this one on bodies. True to form, his photos are great, text refined and clear and advise sound. An essential for those who want to hear from experts on how your camera is put together. Dick, thanks for the work ! --Boundary_(ID_M18Ui+i3Dfu82NpbOBtMuw) Content-type: text/html; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT
I just received Dick's new manual. Those who have his one on Hassy back will really appreciate this one on bodies. True to form, his photos are great, text refined and clear and advise sound. An essential for those who want to hear from experts on how your camera is put together.

Dick, thanks for the work !

--Boundary_(ID_M18Ui+i3Dfu82NpbOBtMuw)-- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 00:56:16 -0400 From: Jesse Hellman To: hasselblad@kelvin.net Subject: Re: flash tips Message-ID: <3AE7AA71.D3965E0F@home.com> Shane, you have not said what you meant by underexposed, as you are using the flash as fill flash with the skateboarders, I would think. So you would set the camera for the correct outdoors exposure anyway. The shutter speed used would determine the amount of blur visible within which the flash would stop the action. So the more blur, the more flash you would need as there would be less overlap between the two exposures. I thought that as a rule of thumb, you do set the flash to underexpose about a stop if, for instance, you are filling in shadow detail. But if the flash is to supply more of the exposure, you give more light. Am I missing something with this? It's a long time since I did it. Jesse ------------------------------ End of hasselblad V1 #1208 ************************** ---------------------------------------------------------------------- The Hasselblad Users Group Listserv is a public service of Absolute Internet, Inc., which is not responsible for its content. This mailing list is in no way affiliated with Victor Hasselblad AB, it's subsidiaries, or affiliates. Please turn off HTML mail features prior to posting to this list. Use text mode only. To change your subscription status, go to: http://mail.kelvin.net/guest/RemoteListSummary/Hasselblad Digest archives are stored at http://www.kelvin.net/hasselblad/hassy.htm Searchable archives can be found at http://www.listquest.com/arts/index.html