hasselblad Fri, 27 Apr 2001 Volume 1 : Number 1209 In this issue: Re: 70mm Film in the UK RE: 70mm Film in the UK Re: flash tips Re: flash tips 503 flash sync Re: flash tips Re: flash tips Re: flash tips Re: flash tips 70mm Film in the UK Re: flash tips Matching Inserts Re: flash tips Re: 70mm Film in the UK Heliopan Circular Polarizer filter factor Re: Heliopan Circular Polarizer filter factor hassy for sale friday 4-26-01 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 17:59:36 +0800 From: "Stein" To: Subject: Re: 70mm Film in the UK Message-ID: <004201c0ce37$b944f080$25b237cb@oemcomputer> Dear Brian, The other replies are all good, but the sales information from some of the major manufacturers can be spotty. I have experienced good service from Agfa with their Aviphot 200 Pan film - they supply it out of Belgium. Kodak can supply 100 ft rolls through B&H for the Portra 160 NC and presumably the 400 VC. They can also sometimes supply Plus X on a thin estar base for aero use in very long rolls but the supply of this seems to be related to the druidical year and/or the melting temperature of faery dust. You get some very odd replies from the Kodak office when you enquire about buying the 70mm. emulsions - ranging from " We don't make TRI - X anymore". to " We never made TRI-X ". to " We can only supply the film in case lots - think of a number and double it....". They essentially amount to " Get away, Boy. Ya bother me. " So I get away and scout round for supplies elsewhere. Be aware that if you do get some of the Plus X Aero film that it is on a very lively base and has a mind of its own. You may remember that statue of Laocoon wrestling with the serpent. The Agfa film is on a thicker base and is fairly high contrast. It IS tamable, however, with some of the newer and liquid developers, and I would be happy to report my results off-list. I do hope that 70mm. does not die entirely - it is very useful for battle scenes and school graduations. For much the same reason.... Uncle Dick ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 12:55:05 +0200 From: "Eduard Crombie" To: Subject: RE: 70mm Film in the UK Message-ID: Dear Brian, Q.G., Stein, As promised in a previous post, a list of the films I found on the Kodak and Agfa sites available in 70mm roll format. Apologies for eventual typos that have crept in. Eduard. =========================================== Kodak Professional Ektachrome E 100 S 70mm x 100ft - E100S/SP475 - CAT No 110 1302 =========================================== Kodak T-Max 100 Professional TMX 70mm x 100ft - TMX/SP473 - CAT No 801 1702 =========================================== Kodak Professional Ektachrome Duplicating film EDUPE 70mm x 100ft - EDUPE/SP481 - CAT No 813 7523 =========================================== Kodak Ektapan film 70mm x 75ft - /SP473 - CAT No 152 6797 =========================================== Kodak Plus-X Pan Professional film 70mm x 100ft - PXE/SP473 - CAT No 165 0480 =========================================== Kodak Tri-X Pan film TX 70mm x 100ft (no perfo) - TX/SP473 - CAT No 852 7616 =========================================== Kodak Portra 400VC, 400NC, 160VC, 160NC Long rolls, but no info if 35mm or 70mm, no CAT code. =========================================== Agfa Aviphot Pan 200 PE1 70mm x 30,5m (100ft) - P(perfo) - CODE 3GYSN =========================================== Agfa Aviphot Color X100 PE1 70mm x 30,5m (100ft) - P - CODE EELTH =========================================== Agfa Aviphot Color N400 PE1 70mm x 30,5m (100ft) - P - CODE 37XBM =========================================== Agfa Agfachrome Duplicating Film CRD 70mm x 30,5m (100ft) DP (no code) ================================================ ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 08:23:23 -0400 (EDT) From: Shane W Davis To: Jesse Hellman , hasselblad@kelvin.net Subject: Re: flash tips Message-ID: > Shane, you have not said what you meant by underexposed, as you are > using the flash as fill flash with the skateboarders, I would think. So These were dusk pictures, so I was assuming that most of the light on the subjects would be from the flash. I will scan one of them onto the web so you can see what I mean by "underexposed". ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 09:07:02 EDT From: Stymulus@aol.com To: qnu@worldonline.nl, hasselblad@kelvin.net Subject: Re: flash tips Message-ID: <7a.14078338.28197776@aol.com> Does anyone know the fastest flash sync for a 503c/x? Thanks, brian ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 09:16:28 -0400 From: "Peter Klosky" To: , Subject: 503 flash sync Message-ID: <001001c0ce53$1a9b59d0$230a210a@dulles> Brian, I'm thinking the 503 uses leaf shutters in the lenses, and will sync up to 1/500th. It is only the focal plane shutter models, in the 2000/200 series, that have poor flash sync when the lenses without shutters are used. The only caution I would offer is that 1/500th may be less than your flash duration. If you are using something like a Novatron or Speedotron power pack system on full power into a single head, your flash duration might be as long as 1/125th. Peter > Does anyone know the fastest flash sync for a 503c/x? > > Thanks, > > brian > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 15:28:53 +0200 From: Michael Buchstaller To: hasselblad@kelvin.net Subject: Re: flash tips Message-ID: >Does anyone know the fastest flash sync for a 503c/x? isn=B4t that determined by the shutter in the lens ? (1/500 sec) -Michael Buchstaller ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 09:35:58 -0400 From: Henry Posner/B&H Photo-Video To: Subject: Re: flash tips Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20010426093008.00c19100@bnhpop1.bhphotovideo.com> At 03:39 AM 04/26/2001, you wrote: >Last weekend I >tried using my 501CM as a "street camera" for the first time, >photographing some skateboarders. My flash has the usual >ISO/distance/aperture chart on the back. When I set the flash for the >film speed I was using, this chart indicated f8 at 10 feet. I've never >had an instruction manual for this thing, but I took that to mean that the >flash would give correct illumination of subjects at 10 feet at that >aperture and film speed. I shot a sequence of pictures at about 5 feet >from the subjects, and set the lens at f16. The pictures look uniformly >underexposed by a stop or so. I presume you used an auto-type flash like the venerable Vivitar 283 or a Metz 45CT1 which has auto flash settings but not TTL (since your camera doesn't have it either). When your flash said 10', it was indicating the maximum flash-to-subject working distance for that particular auto setting. As long as you're at or nearer than that, set your aperture to the flash's suggested aperture. In your case, your flash anticipated f/8, but you underexposed by two stops when you set f/16. In my case, I often use a Vivitar 283 with ISO 400 film. The flash has four color-coded settings. I use the yellow setting, which gives me f/5.6 at up to 40 feet. If you wish to use your flash as fill, rather than main, try this: Set your camera for the ambient illumination, whatever it may be and set your flash output for one stop less. An example -- if your camera's set to 1/125th at f/8, set your flash to produce f/5.6. If the flash is your primary light source, use the aperture your flash suggests and remain within the maximum working distance which will vary from setting to setting. -- regards, Henry Posner Director of Sales and Training B&H Photo-Video, and Pro-Audio Inc. http://www.bhphotovideo.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 09:37:32 -0400 From: Henry Posner/B&H Photo-Video To: Subject: Re: flash tips Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20010426093645.00c1b850@bnhpop1.bhphotovideo.com> At 03:39 AM 04/26/2001, you wrote: >If the table says f/8 at 10 feet, the flash's guide number is 80. >Divide the distance to your subject into this guide number, and the result >will be the aperture to set. >For instance, 5 feet distance: 80/5 = 16. So f/16 should have been correct. This works if the flash is fully manual only, but if it's an auto model like the Vivitar 283 or Sunpak 383Super the flash output depends on the auto setting and the subject. -- regards, Henry Posner Director of Sales and Training B&H Photo-Video, and Pro-Audio Inc. http://www.bhphotovideo.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 09:42:18 -0400 From: Henry Posner/B&H Photo-Video To: Subject: Re: flash tips Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20010426093811.00c13860@bnhpop1.bhphotovideo.com> At 03:39 AM 04/26/2001, you wrote: >The flash is an old Osram C250 Studio with no attachments. The head was >pointed at the subjects, there being nothing to bounce off of. The >underexposed film was Tmax 100; I had shot some on Tmax 400 and those all >are correctly exposed. (To the obvious question: yes, I did remember to >reset the ASA on the flash when I switched films from 400 to 100.) > >The flash has three settings: Auto I, Auto II, and M. I and II seem to be >two stops apart; i.e. I tells you to use to use f4 where II says f2 for >the same film speed. On the "M" setting there is no indication of >aperture, and I suppose here one is invited to use the guide number >formula. Presumably the guide number is calculable from the I and II >settings.... or is it? > >I have no flash meter or Polaroid back. I have been tempted to get the >latter, For "street" photography a meter will get you closer to good exposures than a Polaroid back, which is primarily a studio accessory, and one I use AFTER metering. Your flash's "M" setting is full manual and will force the flash to fire 100% each time. If you wish to use this setting, you will have to calculate the exposure via the Guide Number method for each frame, recalculating every time the distance to the subject varies. With either "Auto" setting, set the lens' aperture to whatever the flash suggests and remain at or nearer than the maximum working distance and you should be well within the ballpark. If you had a exposure meter, you cold balance the ambient light and the flash quantity for very pleasing results. They're a bit rudimentary, but a Gossen Scout III meter is under 55.00. -- regards, Henry Posner Director of Sales and Training B&H Photo-Video, and Pro-Audio Inc. http://www.bhphotovideo.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 13:53:21 -0700 From: "brianbushell" To: Subject: 70mm Film in the UK Message-ID: <005f01c0ce9b$6e8c11e0$0afea8c0@btopenworld.com> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0056_01C0CE58.41410D00 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Thanks to Eduard for taking the time to check into this! I'd also = checked out manufacturers sites and notably Kodak list Portra160 and = Ektachrome 100VS as being available in 70mm. I am really trying to pin = down someone who has stocks and where I could order on line The = Hasselblad Pro Centre in London can get it, but it's on long delivery = times. Thanks for the help. Brian Bushell ------=_NextPart_000_0056_01C0CE58.41410D00 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Thanks to Eduard for taking the time to = check into=20 this!  I'd also checked out manufacturers sites and notably Kodak = list=20 Portra160 and Ektachrome 100VS as being available in 70mm.  I am = really=20 trying to pin down someone who has stocks and where I could order on = line The=20 Hasselblad Pro Centre in London can get it, but it's on long delivery=20 times.  Thanks for the help.
 
Brian = Bushell
------=_NextPart_000_0056_01C0CE58.41410D00-- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 10:01:55 -0400 (EDT) From: Shane W Davis To: hasselblad@kelvin.net Subject: Re: flash tips Message-ID: This is very illuminating. Now I understand what happened and what the chart means. I was making it too complicated, and not taking into account the flash's ability to vary light output within the "Auto" setting. (I was like my grandmother, who yells into the telephone, not quite realizing that the technology obviates yelling.) I do have an exposure meter in my viewfinder, so I can do fill flash when there is more ambient light. In this case I expect the dusky ambience would have meant lots of blur trails if I had used the fill balancing technique starting with ambient exposure. > > With either "Auto" setting, set the lens' aperture to whatever the flash > suggests and remain at or nearer than the maximum working distance and you > should be well within the ballpark. If you had a exposure meter, you cold > balance the ambient light and the flash quantity for very pleasing results. > They're a bit rudimentary, but a Gossen Scout III meter is under 55.00. > > > -- > regards, > Henry Posner > Director of Sales and Training > B&H Photo-Video, and Pro-Audio Inc. > http://www.bhphotovideo.com > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > The Hasselblad Users Group Listserv is a public service of Absolute Internet, Inc., which is not responsible for its content. This mailing list is in no way affiliated with Victor Hasselblad AB, it's subsidiaries, or affiliates. > > Please turn off HTML mail features prior to posting to this list. Use text mode only. > > To change your subscription status, go to: http://mail.kelvin.net/guest/RemoteListSummary/Hasselblad > Digest archives are stored at http://www.kelvin.net/hasselblad/hassy.htm > Searchable archives can be found at http://www.listquest.com/arts/index.html > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 10:13:45 EDT From: Digiratidoc@aol.com To: hasselblad@kelvin.net Subject: Matching Inserts Message-ID: <2f.145d2f6d.28198719@aol.com> Have all Hasselblad backs always been made with matching inserts with matching sets of serial numbers? I've owned some plain 12 backs whose numbers didn't match in any way. Jim Laird ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 10:47:07 -0400 From: "Peter Klosky" To: Subject: Re: flash tips Message-ID: <007d01c0ce5f$c9099fc0$230a210a@dulles> Henry, I think I'm getting clearer on what happened. I think what has been said is that the manual calculations where used, but the flash was set to auto instead of manual, thereby reducing its power based on the sensor input. It's good that both the interactive nature of the internet coupled with several folks reading this figured out the problem. This might have been cleared up more quickly if the initial report had stated, the flash was a specific model, the flash was so many feet from the subject, the auto1-auto2-manual switch was set to a specific setting, the fstop was set to an specific fstop, the shutter was at a certain fstop, the ambient condition was what is was, the film was a certain film, etc. Shane, By the way, an excellent book on flash technology as it applies to your work is "Electronic Flash Photography" in the Kodak Workshop series. It goes into a number of important topics, including the effect of subject reflectivity in auto and room reflectivity in manual. Peter > At 03:39 AM 04/26/2001, you wrote: > >If the table says f/8 at 10 feet, the flash's guide number is 80. > >Divide the distance to your subject into this guide number, and the result > >will be the aperture to set. > >For instance, 5 feet distance: 80/5 = 16. So f/16 should have been correct. > > This works if the flash is fully manual only, but if it's an auto model > like the Vivitar 283 or Sunpak 383Super the flash output depends on the > auto setting and the subject. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 20:38:36 +0200 From: "Ragnar Hansen Ing A/S" To: Subject: Re: 70mm Film in the UK Message-ID: <000901c0ce80$1ae42930$09509fc3@VERITON> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01C0CE90.DE32D660 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable There is another way to get hold of 70 mm film. It's cheap but it = needs some working. The companies who does aerial photo for mapping and LF pictures mostly = use 9,5" film. When the only have 20-30 pictures left on the roll they seldom bother = to take this along on a new flight. Therefore ,their freezers are often stuck with such = rolls with 20-30 feet ends. If you contackt them and telling what your intended use is, most of = the time their happy to get rid of these for free or for a nominal fee. I made myself a cutting machine with two spools and an axel with = rotating cutting blades. I recut this film to whatever I want, mostly for myself it is five = inch for the aerotechnica. 30 feet of 9,5 inch will be 90 feet of 70 mm. You still got a problem; the hassy 70 mm magazines are made for = perforated film. I am sure that preforating machines exist, but I am afraid they only = belong to companies like kodak etc. If someone know of one, please e-mail me. I have seen convertion kits for the hassy 70 mm mags on e-bay, but = these was only a wheel with a rubber o-ring to exchange for the sprocket wheel in the = magazine. I do not know how safe this is regading spacing of the pictures. A = better idea would be=20 to exchange the roller in line with the sprocet wheel with a smaller = roller with a high friction rubber hose. I will make up some of these when I get hold of = some hose. Ragnar Hansen ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01C0CE90.DE32D660 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
There is another way to get hold of = 70 mm film.=20 It's cheap but it needs some working.
The companies who does aerial photo = for mapping=20 and LF pictures mostly use 9,5" film.
When the only have 20-30 pictures = left on the=20 roll they seldom bother to take this along on
a new flight. Therefore ,their = freezers are often=20 stuck with such rolls with 20-30 feet ends.
If you contackt them and telling what = your=20 intended use is, most of the time their happy
to get rid of these for free or for a = nominal=20 fee.
I made myself a cutting machine with = two spools=20 and an axel with rotating cutting blades.
I recut this film to whatever I want, = mostly for=20 myself it is five inch for the aerotechnica.
30 feet of 9,5 inch will be 90 feet = of 70=20 mm.
You still got a problem; the hassy 70 = mm=20 magazines are made for perforated film.
I am sure that preforating machines = exist, but I=20 am afraid they only belong to companies
like kodak etc. If someone know of = one, please=20 e-mail me.
I have seen convertion kits for the = hassy 70 mm=20 mags on e-bay, but these was only a
wheel with a rubber o-ring to = exchange for the=20 sprocket wheel in the magazine.
I do not know how safe this is = regading spacing=20 of the pictures. A better idea would be
to exchange the roller in line with = the sprocet=20 wheel with a smaller roller with a high
friction rubber hose. I will make up = some of=20 these when I get hold of some hose.
 
Ragnar=20 Hansen
------=_NextPart_000_0006_01C0CE90.DE32D660-- ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 06:22:16 +0800 From: kwow To: "hasselblad@kelvin.net" Subject: Heliopan Circular Polarizer filter factor Message-ID: <3AE89F98.C3B5A5B8@pacific.net.sg> I've recently face problem with exposure on the above-mention polarizer. It is marked on the filter ring with a filter factor of 2.5, which should be about 1.25 f/stops. I would normally perform metering the subject without the polarizer & fix it on, then adjust the compensation required, without further metering again. The result is that some of the shots are not exposed consistently. It should not be my metering method, as I don't face this problem on shots that do not use the polarizer. It makes me question the filter factor consistency under different lighting condition. I would appreciate if anyone can advice me on proper usage of the Heliopan circular polarizer, by the way, mine is the single-coated type. Regards KW.. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 17:25:42 -0700 From: Jim Brick To: hasselblad@kelvin.net, "hasselblad@kelvin.net" Subject: Re: Heliopan Circular Polarizer filter factor Message-ID: <200104270028.RAA19163@spoon.alink.net> If you use a meter prism or 200 series camera with built-in meter, the exposure factor will automatically be taken care of. If you use an external meter, you need to figure the factor in the direction you are photographing and the degree you are polarizing. My Gossen meters (Luna Star F2 & Luna Pro Digital) will read through the filter and store the factor in the meter and automatically apply it to the reading. Set the Gossen meter to COR (correction), point it at the scene and push the meter read button. The display will say "REF". Put the filter over the meter, not moving the meter and have the polarizer turned for the degree of polarization wanted, and push the meter read button. The filter factor will be stored in the meter and will bias all future meter readings until cleared. Any filter can be read like this and it sure makes it easy to figure a filter factor when using a hand held meter. Like always on my 4x5 Linhof. Jim At 06:22 AM 4/27/01 +0800, kwow wrote: >I've recently face problem with exposure on the above-mention polarizer. >It is marked on the filter ring with a filter factor of 2.5, which >should be about 1.25 f/stops. > >I would normally perform metering the subject without the polarizer & >fix it on, then adjust the compensation required, without further >metering again. The result is that some of the shots are not exposed >consistently. It should not be my metering method, as I don't face this >problem on shots that do not use the polarizer. > >It makes me question the filter factor consistency under different >lighting condition. I would appreciate if anyone can advice me on proper >usage of the Heliopan circular polarizer, by the way, mine is the >single-coated type. > > >Regards >KW.. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 02:01:21 EDT From: Photovilla@aol.com To: hasselblad@kelvin.net Subject: hassy for sale friday 4-26-01 Message-ID: I am an authorized Hasselblad USA dealer and a one man shop. The gear below represents only some of what I have...so please do call or email with questions. I take consignment pieces at a low 10% commission rate too! ------------------------------------------ NEW: HASSELBLAD SERVICE DEPARTMENT: We are proud to announce that we have now added to our services a factory trained Hasselblad repair technician. Our technician, Brad Sherman, has worked for Hasselblad USA and several camera stores in New York City. 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Hasselblad 250 CFT* Super Achromat, As New/boxed, never used $4295 Hasselblad A12, New, USA $759 Hasselblad A12, New, demo$689 Hasselblad A12, Exc++/Mint-, black $545 Hasselblad A12, Exc++/Mint-, chrome $545 Hasselblad A12 Mint, boxed, chrome $450 Hasselblad #12 back, Mint- $225 Hasselblad #12 back, Exc++ $200 Hasselblad A24, New, USA $868 Hasselblad A24, New, demo $795 Hasselblad A32 New, USA $1001 Visatech Lighting through Hasselblad USA $available Books: Nordin, Richard, The Hasselblad Compendium, New, USA $59.95 Wildi Hasselblad Books: In Stock thanks! Rich photovillage.com 212-398-0402 (leave a message if I'm out...) ------------------------------ End of hasselblad V1 #1209 ************************** ---------------------------------------------------------------------- The Hasselblad Users Group Listserv is a public service of Absolute Internet, Inc., which is not responsible for its content. This mailing list is in no way affiliated with Victor Hasselblad AB, it's subsidiaries, or affiliates. Please turn off HTML mail features prior to posting to this list. Use text mode only. To change your subscription status, go to: http://mail.kelvin.net/guest/RemoteListSummary/Hasselblad Digest archives are stored at http://www.kelvin.net/hasselblad/hassy.htm Searchable archives can be found at http://www.listquest.com/arts/index.html