hasselblad Thu, 7 Jun 2001 Volume 1 : Number 1250 In this issue: Re: Darkfocus Re: Bellows problem with 501CM Greenland and Hasselblad Re: Greenland and Hasselblad Re: Bellows problem with 501CM Photo locations in Chinon, France RE: Photo locations in Chinon, France focusing problems Re: focusing problems Re: RE: 220 Delta 400 bye-bye!?! RE: RE: 220 Delta 400 bye-bye!?! ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 17:49:09 +0800 From: "Stein" To: Subject: Re: Darkfocus Message-ID: <003201c0ee6d$ef6e40c0$dcb237cb@oemcomputer> Dear Friends, Too dark to focus? Too dark to see the lens settings? Too dark to find the front of the Hasselblad except by feel? ( Which explains the greasy fingerprints on the filter....) Welcome to the wedding reception. Ain't it romantic? Any darker and you'd see 2 Welshmen and a pit pony go by. Are they saving money by only using 40 watt bulbs? Do what I do: 1. Use a laser pointer on the end of a key ring to spot onto the front of the groom and focus on that with the ground glass. Warn the groom. 2. Get the assistant to run up and put the top of the Quantum battery near the groom's head. The LED's will act as a good focus target. 3. f.11. Even if you shoot normally at f.8 - use the extra stop of power on your flash to get a bit more depth. 4. Set fire to the hall and shoot anyone who emerges. At f.11. Hey, it worked for the Vikings and these are Swedish cameras we're using, aren't they? Hvar, Hvar, Hvar.... Uncle Dick PS: Forgive me. I have been driving around all day talking to estate agents and my brain hurts. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 13:59:18 +0200 From: "Q.G. de Bakker" To: Subject: Re: Bellows problem with 501CM Message-ID: <000d01c0ee80$1ea30a80$67e4f1c3@qnu350> Gdoces@aol.com wrote: > Today I attempted for the first time to put the "round" bellows extension > (item #40223) on my 501CM only to discover that I could not "lock" the > bellows onto the camera body. I can't figure out what the problem is. > Normally, the bellows is inserted into the front of the camera body so that > the marking on the bellows are properly aligned, turn counter-clockwise and > the bellows should be locked on. It fit properly but would not turn to the > locked position. All of my lenses attach to this camera without any problem. > Any suggestions or ideas as to what is the problem? The problem is the new style release button. It is too wide. You can solve the problem by first attaching the 16 mm extension tube to the camera, and then attach the bellows to the tube. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2001 09:04:50 -0700 From: Nitzan Tagansky To: Subject: Greenland and Hasselblad Message-ID: Hello all, I'm travelling to Greenland next month with a 205FCC....(batteries) Anybody have some cold weather tips?? ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2001 07:58:41 -0700 From: Jim Brick To: hasselblad@kelvin.net, Subject: Re: Greenland and Hasselblad Message-ID: <4.1.20010606075419.02031580@xsj02.sjs.agilent.com> At 09:04 AM 6/6/01 -0700, Nitzan Tagansky wrote: >Hello all, > >I'm travelling to Greenland next month with a 205FCC....(batteries) Anybody >have some cold weather tips?? > Since this is summer in the northern hemisphere, I doubt that you will encounter and out of the ordinary cold weather. Certainly no colder than Sweden gets, where Hasselblad is made. So I personally think that you should just take your camera, lenses, film, always an extra battery (no matter where you are going), have fun, and take lots of pictures. I believe it is T-shirt weather in Greenland right now. Jim ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2001 12:02:39 -0400 From: "Eugene A. Pallat" To: hasselblad@kelvin.net Subject: Re: Bellows problem with 501CM Message-ID: <3B1E541F.FE49DD93@apk.net> Gdoces@aol.com wrote: > Today I attempted for the first time to put the "round" bellows extension > (item #40223) on my 501CM only to discover that I could not "lock" the > bellows onto the camera body. I can't figure out what the problem is. > Normally, the bellows is inserted into the front of the camera body so that > the marking on the bellows are properly aligned, turn counter-clockwise and > the bellows should be locked on. It fit properly but would not turn to the > locked position. All of my lenses attach to this camera without any problem. > Any suggestions or ideas as to what is the problem? Not overlooking the obvious, first, make shure that the shutter is cocked. Look at the rotating key which trips the shutter located on lens mount on the front of the body to see if it's horizontal rather than a two o'clock/8 o'clock position. Second, and far more likely, look at the same key on the bellows. It may not be positioned propperly. If not, use a penny or dime to rotate it. make certain you rotate in the correct direction. The lens, of course, should be already cocked. Gene Pallat Orion Forensics Orion Data Systems ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 17:37:44 +0100 From: "Simon Lamb" To: Subject: Photo locations in Chinon, France Message-ID: <010101c0eea7$035bf080$890a0a0a@phoenixdb.co.uk> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_00FE_01C0EEAF.64A004F0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I will be in Chinon in France during the summer and wondered if anyone = knew of any interesting photographic locations that might be worth visiting. = I have done the Loire chateaus so anything other those would be = appreciated. Thanks. Simon ------=_NextPart_000_00FE_01C0EEAF.64A004F0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I will be in=20 Chinon in France during the summer and wondered if anyone knew
of any = interesting photographic locations that might be worth visiting.  = I
have=20 done the Loire chateaus so anything other those would be=20 appreciated.

Thanks.

Simon

------=_NextPart_000_00FE_01C0EEAF.64A004F0-- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 10:36:09 -0700 From: "James H. Holt" To: Subject: RE: Photo locations in Chinon, France Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0002_01C0EE74.7FA4D5E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Food shots. And, you can taste what you take. Regards, Jim ------=_NextPart_000_0002_01C0EE74.7FA4D5E0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Fo= od shots.  And, you can taste = what you take.

 

Re= gards,

 

Ji= m

 

 

 

 <= /p>

------=_NextPart_000_0002_01C0EE74.7FA4D5E0-- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 21:39:12 +0100 From: "ian barnes" To: Subject: focusing problems Message-ID: <004201c0eec8$d56c7a60$0100a8c0@main> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_003F_01C0EED1.20A2F560 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I am in the middle of restoring/repairing/renovating an old 500c body. I = have just finished replacing the mirror foam pads and the mirror damping = foam. I am finding both of my lens produce sharp pictures on film at = infinity but this appears slighty out of focus in the viewfinder. When = focusing visually focus is slightly before the infinity stop.I feel the = screen needs adjusting upwards which I have done a little which improves = things but seem to have run out of adjustment. Perhaps the pads are = pushing the screen to high or the mirror is not at 45 degrees. Any = ideas? thankyou ian ------=_NextPart_000_003F_01C0EED1.20A2F560 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I am in the middle of=20 restoring/repairing/renovating an old 500c body. I have just finished = replacing=20 the mirror foam pads and the mirror damping foam. I am finding both = of my=20 lens produce sharp pictures on film at infinity but this appears slighty = out of=20 focus in the viewfinder. When focusing visually focus is slightly = before=20 the infinity stop.I feel the screen needs adjusting upwards which I have = done a=20 little which improves things but seem to have run out of adjustment. = Perhaps=20 the pads are pushing the screen to high or the mirror is not at 45 = degrees. Any=20 ideas?
thankyou ian
------=_NextPart_000_003F_01C0EED1.20A2F560-- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 16:53:18 -0400 From: "Peter Klosky" To: "ian barnes" , Subject: Re: focusing problems Message-ID: <004f01c0eeca$b7345ac0$230a210a@dulles> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_004C_01C0EEA9.2FAD1590 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Correct me if I'm wrong, but aren't there screws to raise and lower the = mirror, more or less visible from the top? I tend to hire this service = done from Peter Whedbee, Baltimore. ----- Original Message -----=20 From: ian barnes=20 To: hasselblad@kelvin.net=20 Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2001 4:39 PM Subject: focusing problems I am in the middle of restoring/repairing/renovating an old 500c body. = I have just finished replacing the mirror foam pads and the mirror = damping foam. I am finding both of my lens produce sharp pictures on = film at infinity but this appears slighty out of focus in the = viewfinder. When focusing visually focus is slightly before the infinity = stop.I feel the screen needs adjusting upwards which I have done a = little which improves things but seem to have run out of adjustment. = Perhaps the pads are pushing the screen to high or the mirror is not at = 45 degrees. Any ideas? thankyou ian ------=_NextPart_000_004C_01C0EEA9.2FAD1590 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Correct me if I'm wrong, but aren't = there screws to=20 raise and lower the mirror, more or less visible from the top?  I = tend to=20 hire this service done from Peter Whedbee, Baltimore.
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 ian=20 barnes
To: hasselblad@kelvin.net
Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2001 = 4:39=20 PM
Subject: focusing = problems

I am in the middle of=20 restoring/repairing/renovating an old 500c body. I have just finished=20 replacing the mirror foam pads and the mirror damping foam. I am=20 finding both of my lens produce sharp pictures on film at = infinity but=20 this appears slighty out of focus in the viewfinder. When focusing=20 visually focus is slightly before the infinity stop.I feel the = screen=20 needs adjusting upwards which I have done a little which improves = things but=20 seem to have run out of adjustment. Perhaps the pads are pushing the = screen to=20 high or the mirror is not at 45 degrees. Any ideas?
thankyou=20 ian
------=_NextPart_000_004C_01C0EEA9.2FAD1590-- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 17:31:53 EDT From: ShadCat11@aol.com To: bradley.hanson@home.com, hasselblad@kelvin.net Subject: Re: RE: 220 Delta 400 bye-bye!?! Message-ID: <3b.15ab925e.284ffb49@aol.com> In a message dated 06/05/2001 12:23:48 AM, you wrote: <> Agreed. I don't understand what niche it fills, and solicit enlightenment from anyone who knows. <> ??? Creamy when exposed @ 1600? Don't you mean 400? Or, even better, 200? In any case, I need TX in 220, which is not offered, and am hoping for its semblance in HP5+, which is. <> Not an issue for me, I do all my own b&w processing. Allen Zak ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 20:46:33 -0700 From: "bradley hanson" To: Subject: RE: RE: 220 Delta 400 bye-bye!?! Message-ID: > < pleasing dirty gritty look to it that the newer sharper films > don't have. My > favorite B&W lab in Seattle will run film in any developer, but it looks > great in XTOL. It also looks gorgeously snappy and creamy when > shot at 1600 > and processed in D-76.>> > > ??? Creamy when exposed @ 1600? Don't you mean 400? Or, even > better, 200? > In any case, I need TX in 220, which is not offered, and am > hoping for its > semblance in HP5+, which is. > > Allen Zak > http://www.listquest.com/arts/index.html Hi Allen- I like Tri-X (TX) at all speeds, but I usually shoot it at 640 or 800 with a medium yellow filter, and push 1 stop in processing. What I mean by "creamy" are the gorgeous blown out smooth skin tones created by the way it responds to overdevelopment and overprocessing. My favorite photographer, Anton Corbijn, has made a career shooting this way in the extreme. Who cares about shadow detail and highlight balance, give me drama! When I shot 35mm, I used to push Tri-X to 1200, pushing two stops in D-76. Models love this look... b r a d l e y h a n s o n Seattle, WA http://www.hansonphotography.com ------------------------------ End of hasselblad V1 #1250 ************************** ---------------------------------------------------------------------- The Hasselblad Users Group Listserv is a public service of Absolute Internet, Inc., which is not responsible for its content. This mailing list is in no way affiliated with Victor Hasselblad AB, it's subsidiaries, or affiliates. Please turn off HTML mail features prior to posting to this list. Use text mode only. To change your subscription status, go to: http://mail.kelvin.net/guest/RemoteListSummary/Hasselblad Digest archives are stored at http://www.kelvin.net/hasselblad/hassy.htm Searchable archives can be found at http://www.listquest.com/arts/index.html