hasselblad Thu, 10 Jan 2002 Volume 1 : Number 1465 In this issue: 503CW or 203FE Re: [HUG] 503CW or 203FE RE: [HUG] 503CW or 203FE Re: [HUG] 503CW or 203FE RE: [HUG] 503CW or 203FE 38mm Biogon Questions/Comparison with 75mm Biogon Re: [HUG] 503CW or 203FE Oops... Re: Pentax SM Lists Re: [HUG] 503CW or 203FE Portrait mistakes Re: [HUG] 503CW or 203FE Re: [HUG] Lens question Re: [HUG] Lens question HUG Question re: avoiding possible SWC/M 38mm biogon damage from filters... Re: [HUG] re: avoiding possible SWC/M 38mm biogon damage from filters... Film Winding RE: [HUG] Film Winding Re: [HUG] 503CW or 203FE Portraiture work ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 14:16:04 +0800 From: "youheng" To: Subject: 503CW or 203FE Message-ID: <003e01c19902$9833cb00$b439a03d@shen> Dear List: I just joined. Since I have no MF knowledge and planning an Hassy system, I think here is the place to beg good tips in the system choosing. First, if you were me and price aside, would you buy mechanical or electronic? why? Many more questions follow upon the body is set. Thanx, JM Shen ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2002 06:00:25 -0800 From: george day To: Subject: Re: [HUG] 503CW or 203FE Message-ID: The beauty of the 203 is that it's mechanical and electronic. Takes a teeny-tiny battery instead of knuckle-duster sized, $200 NiCad and still works like the Hasselblad it is without it. The big difference is that you get a meter in the body with the 203 and automated exposure options. Look through the archives at http://www.kelvin.net/hasselblad/hassy.htm and do a search on "203fe" on www.photo.net -- you'll find threads in both places that cover most of your answers. On 1/8/02 10:16 PM, "youheng" wrote: > Dear List: > > I just joined. Since I have no MF knowledge and planning an Hassy system, I > think here is the place to beg good tips in the system choosing. > > First, if you were me and price aside, would you buy mechanical or > electronic? why? > > Many more questions follow upon the body is set. > > Thanx, > JM Shen > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > The Hasselblad Users Group Listserv is a public service of Absolute Internet, > Inc., which is not responsible for its content. This mailing list is in no > way affiliated with Victor Hasselblad AB, it's subsidiaries, or affiliates. > > Please turn off HTML mail features prior to posting to this list. Use text > mode only. > > To change your subscription status, go to: > http://mail.kelvin.net/guest/RemoteListSummary/Hasselblad > Digest archives are stored at http://www.kelvin.net/hasselblad/hassy.htm ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 09:35:33 -0500 From: "Austin Franklin" To: Subject: RE: [HUG] 503CW or 203FE Message-ID: > I just joined. Since I have no MF knowledge and planning an Hassy > system, I > think here is the place to beg good tips in the system choosing. JM, If this is your first MF camera, I would suggest a used 500C/M "kit" (body, A12 back and 80CF lense) and a PME3 meter prism from a reputable used equipment dealer like KEH. Use it for a while, get used to it, and make sure MF and Hasselblads are for you...if not, you can sell it for near what you bought it for, if it is, then you have a fantastic camera, and can expand the system. Regards, Austin ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2002 06:38:47 -0800 From: george day To: Subject: Re: [HUG] 503CW or 203FE Message-ID: Well said, Austin. I don't care if you're Bill Gates, spending a pile of money on equipment that might even confuse you simply isn't a great idea. On 1/9/02 6:35 AM, "Austin Franklin" wrote: > >> I just joined. Since I have no MF knowledge and planning an Hassy >> system, I >> think here is the place to beg good tips in the system choosing. > > JM, > > If this is your first MF camera, I would suggest a used 500C/M "kit" (body, > A12 back and 80CF lense) and a PME3 meter prism from a reputable used > equipment dealer like KEH. Use it for a while, get used to it, and make > sure MF and Hasselblads are for you...if not, you can sell it for near what > you bought it for, if it is, then you have a fantastic camera, and can > expand the system. > > Regards, > > Austin > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > The Hasselblad Users Group Listserv is a public service of Absolute Internet, > Inc., which is not responsible for its content. This mailing list is in no > way affiliated with Victor Hasselblad AB, it's subsidiaries, or affiliates. > > Please turn off HTML mail features prior to posting to this list. Use text > mode only. > > To change your subscription status, go to: > http://mail.kelvin.net/guest/RemoteListSummary/Hasselblad > Digest archives are stored at http://www.kelvin.net/hasselblad/hassy.htm ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 10:09:40 -0500 From: "Austin Franklin" To: Subject: RE: [HUG] 503CW or 203FE Message-ID: Thanks George, every now and then I slip one in ;-) > Well said, Austin. I don't care if you're Bill Gates, spending a pile of > money on equipment that might even confuse you simply isn't a great idea. > > On 1/9/02 6:35 AM, "Austin Franklin" wrote: > > > > >> I just joined. Since I have no MF knowledge and planning an Hassy > >> system, I > >> think here is the place to beg good tips in the system choosing. > > > > JM, > > > > If this is your first MF camera, I would suggest a used 500C/M > "kit" (body, > > A12 back and 80CF lense) and a PME3 meter prism from a reputable used > > equipment dealer like KEH. Use it for a while, get used to it, and make > > sure MF and Hasselblads are for you...if not, you can sell it > for near what > > you bought it for, if it is, then you have a fantastic camera, and can > > expand the system. > > > > Regards, > > > > Austin ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2002 09:45:33 -0600 From: "Mose, J P" To: "'hasselblad@kelvin.net'" Subject: 38mm Biogon Questions/Comparison with 75mm Biogon Message-ID: Greetings, A couple of months ago I purchased a Super Wide and I am now interested in purchasing 63mm drop in filters. I have been told that the filter glass can come in contact with the lens if the filter is dropped in backwards. In other words, the filter glass has to be offset in its retaining ring in order not to make contact with the lens. Do all 63mm filters meet this requirement or will I have to buy Hasselblad filters? The photos I developed are outstanding! Although this is a pre T* lens, the performance is great! Has anyone out there performed a resolution test per f/stop....I would be curious of the results? I have often heard that a Biogon has the advantage of wide aperture use (in comparison to many wide angle lenses which MUST be stopped way down). What is the optimal f/stop with this lens for purposes of resolution and sharpness? And my final question...have any of you compared the 38mm Biogon with the 75mm Biogon (usually Linhof select)? Does the 75mm match the 38mm as far as resolution, sharpness, etc.? Thanks for your help! J. P. Mose ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2002 11:17:45 -0500 From: "Charlie Goodwin" To: "hasselblad@kelvin.net" Subject: Re: [HUG] 503CW or 203FE Message-ID: <200201091542.g09FgAB18415@smtp.mcttelecom.com> Hi JM, The admonition to ease in slowly to a Hassy system is very good advise. T= he Hasselblad has a much longer learning curve than many of the systems mos= t people start taking pictures with. There are more details to absorb jus= t to start shooting with a Hassy, and just to escape from a whole series of= errors that will stop you cold at the start. Just loading film properly,= not getting the lens jammed to the body...etc. Getting the simplest possible Hassy will pay off for you down the road many= times over. You'll be learning to use the Hasselblad, rather than fighti= ng the Hasselblad. No matter if cost is not an objection, as you may be s= aying, I would stick to the essential system first. I'm making the assumption as I write, that you are somewhat new to photogra= phy in general, and that assumption underlies what I have to say below. I= f I am off the mark, please accept my apologies, take whatever feels releva= nt, and ignore the rest. Like some of the others say, the 500C/500CM cameras, used, etc, with a good= used old lens will get you up and running. You will need a light meter. = Get that either in a prism or as a separate hand held meter. I believe = you will learn more about shooting with a hand held meter in many cases, bu= t I don't know your previous experience with photography. Maybe you are a= lready comfortable with calculating exposure etc. Could you post what you= have done with photography till now? I suspect we can offer more specifi= c information if we know where you have been and what you would like to do = in the future with cameras. Whatever you do, once you have A camera, and ONE lens, and A device to meas= ure light and set exposure..... acquire any further items piece by piece. = Learn each piece before you get the next. The camera habit is addictive.= It's so easy to be seduced by the fabulous toys Mr V. Hasselblad produce= s. So easy that you may be bitten by the urge to have one of everything. = Don't give in to that urge quite yet. Somewhere down the road, you will know the system, and more importantly, yo= u will know what you do, want , and need, and further acquisitions won't si= t in a case unused or be shunted off to EBay for me to snap up at half what= you paid. I'll be happy, but you will be out money and time better spen= t elsewhere. More than anything, get a bare bones system, and shoot as much film through= it as you can. Here's the paradox....To photograph as well as you can wi= th MF or any F if the future, make as many mistakes as soon as you can...i.= e. shoot a lot. You'll learn faster than any other way. Analyse the stu= ff that didn't come out the way you planned. Hopefully that will be tons = of stuff. Ask the HUG group, or any available "expert" how to get closer = to your planned outcome. Be prepared to reshoot over and over to get what= you want. Burn film. Ask questions. Wait on getting a big system. Good luck Charlie > Dear List: > > I just joined. Since I have no MF knowledge and planning an Hassy system,= I > think here is the place to beg good tips in the system choosing. > > First, if you were me and price aside, would you buy mechanical or > electronic? why? > > Many more questions follow upon the body is set. > > Thanx, > JM Shen > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > The Hasselblad Users Group Listserv is a public service of Absolute Inter= net, Inc., which is not responsible for its content. This mailing list is = in no way affiliated with Victor Hasselblad AB, it's subsidiaries, or affil= iates. > > Please turn off HTML mail features prior to posting to this list. Use t= ext mode only. > > To change your subscription status, go to: http://mail.kelvin.net/guest/R= emoteListSummary/Hasselblad > Digest archives are stored at http://www.kelvin.net/hasselblad/hassy.htm If electricity comes from electrons, does morality come from morons? ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2002 11:22:05 -0500 From: "Charlie Goodwin" To: "hasselblad@kelvin.net" Subject: Oops... Message-ID: <200201091546.g09FkUB18850@smtp.mcttelecom.com> My apologies to all. After admonishing everyone else to edit their replies, I realized a moment = after hitting the send button that I have just sent off a message without c= leaning it up at the bottom. Maybe I should read my own postings... Charlie ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2002 11:28:43 -0500 From: Henry Posner/B&H Photo-Video To: Subject: Re: Pentax SM Lists Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20020109112826.05231d70@bnhpop1.bhphotovideo.com> At 03:58 AM 01/09/2002, you wrote: >Does anyone out there know of any mailing lists such as this for Pentax SM >owners Try . -- regards, Henry Posner Director of Sales and Training B&H Photo-Video, and Pro-Audio Inc. http://www.bhphotovideo.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2002 10:20:37 -0800 From: Jim Brick To: hasselblad@kelvin.net Subject: Re: [HUG] 503CW or 203FE Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20020109100919.03d2bce8@pop.alink.net> At 11:17 AM 1/9/2002 -0500, Charlie Goodwin wrote: >Getting the simplest possible Hassy will pay off for you down the road >many times over. You'll be learning to use the Hasselblad, rather than >fighting the Hasselblad. No matter if cost is not an objection, as you >may be saying, I would stick to the essential system first. The nice thing about Hasselblad is that they are completely backward compatible. Remove the battery from a 203 (a one second job) and you have a 503. The Focal plane shutter operates just like the 500 series curtain. C, CF, CB, CFi, & CFE all work exactly as they would on any 500 series camera. Buying a 203 is a no lose situation. You have the best of both "E" and non "E" worlds. I had the battery go out on my 203 once and it didn't slow me down at all. I just popped out the battery, so it would not be trying to do anything, and continued shooting as if the camera was a 503. This is really a nice feature. Hasselblad could have made it (like other manufacturers do) so the camera is dead without a battery. But they went the extra mile and produced a winner that will never strand you photographically. Jim ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 09:45:02 -0800 From: "Tourtelot" To: Subject: Portrait mistakes Message-ID: <001301c19935$5e0b4d80$6401a8c0@attbi.com> I am shooting some portraits of my daughters (so you know the models are ok) and I have had some success with two Vivitar 283 strobes, one to each side, one as a key bounced off a white umbrella and one as fill, down one and one-thirds stop, through am umbrella. This against a white BG with a small GN32 strobe through an umbrella above both as a hair light and as a BG light. This all went pretty much as planned. Then I thought I'd change it around. Now it is both lights out front, key over fill, way flatter, but with a nice catch light in the eyes, a 12x24 softbox overhead for hair light and a black velour BG. Oh yeah, the addition of a #21 tube on my 250C Sonnar. Yep, that's a change alright. I meter for the key, get an 11, meter for both, get a 16. Take -1 for the tube (really less, more like -1/3 I'm thinking) and shoot XP2 (rrated at 320) at an 8. The symptoms of my not very satisfactory shots. 1) a lot of soft focus, probably caused by an f8 stop and a fidgitty 10-year-old? 2) an very muddy BG. It didn't go dead black as I had hoped, possibly from spill from the OH softbox? Move it back further? and 3) Overall lack of contrast, possibly from the negatives being 1-2 stops overexposed, proofed in a mini-lab and auto-leveled? I know this is complex and I am not asking for a mini-studio lighting seminar here, but if any of you have some experience and can shed some (dare I say) light on the subject, I'd appreciate a note off-list. Thanks for reading my rambling thoughts. Regards, Douglas Tourtelot, CAS Seattle, WA tourtelot1@attbi.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2002 11:11:10 -0800 From: george day To: Subject: Re: [HUG] 503CW or 203FE Message-ID: It's a great thing. I only wish I could get an IR remote for the 200 series winder, like on the 503. Nifty feature the "higher end" camera -- if that's really an appropriate phrase, given these are all cadillacs -- should have. On 1/9/02 10:20 AM, "Jim Brick" wrote: > At 11:17 AM 1/9/2002 -0500, Charlie Goodwin wrote: > >> Getting the simplest possible Hassy will pay off for you down the road >> many times over. You'll be learning to use the Hasselblad, rather than >> fighting the Hasselblad. No matter if cost is not an objection, as you >> may be saying, I would stick to the essential system first. > > > The nice thing about Hasselblad is that they are completely backward > compatible. Remove the battery from a 203 (a one second job) and you have a > 503. The Focal plane shutter operates just like the 500 series curtain. C, > CF, CB, CFi, & CFE all work exactly as they would on any 500 series camera. > > Buying a 203 is a no lose situation. You have the best of both "E" and non > "E" worlds. > > I had the battery go out on my 203 once and it didn't slow me down at all. > I just popped out the battery, so it would not be trying to do anything, > and continued shooting as if the camera was a 503. This is really a nice > feature. Hasselblad could have made it (like other manufacturers do) so the > camera is dead without a battery. But they went the extra mile and produced > a winner that will never strand you photographically. > > Jim > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 22:52:52 +0200 From: "shutter" To: Subject: Re: [HUG] Lens question Message-ID: <02ee01c1994f$b6ade3c0$0e93cba3@lameez> This may be a stupid question but what do the 'names' given to lenses mean. For example: Distagon, angulon etc etc..... If anyone has a list of translations I would be most greatful. Cheers Harry ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 22:35:31 +0100 From: "Q.G. de Bakker" To: Subject: Re: [HUG] Lens question Message-ID: <01c401c19955$91827380$72dcf1c3@qnu350> shutter wrote: > This may be a stupid question but what do the 'names' given to lenses mean. > For example: Distagon, angulon etc etc..... > > If anyone has a list of translations I would be most greatful. Zeiss lenses: Biogon - A lens with an angle of view so wide that it can capture very much of the life around us in a single frame - this is what the name originally means. Distagon - When wide angle views go to extremes and beg the control via an SLR viewfinder, the back focal distance has to be much larger than the focal length, a retrofous design called Distagon is the right choice. Planar - flat image plane. Sonnar - A lens design with relatively few glass-to-air surfaces, invented by Dr. Ludwig Bertele at Carl Zeiss in 1930 to provide the fastest lenses of that day for 35 mm photography offering speeds up to f/1.5 and well controlled veiling glare. This is where the name comes from, containig the German word for sun, 'Sonne', the symbol of utmost brightness. Superachromat - The name 'Superachromat' was created by Max Herzberger in the early 1960s, christening his dream of a lens with perfect color correction even beyond the level of apochromats. Tessar - The original Tessar lens is a 4-element design - this is expressed by that name, referring to the Greek word 'tessares', which means 'four'. More info on http://www.zeiss.de You will have to dig a bit into this site to reach the info about photographic lenses. But well worth the trouble. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2002 23:20:49 +0000 From: "Weldon Fincher" To: hasselblad@kelvin.net Subject: HUG Question Message-ID:

I recently attempted to purchase a Lindahl Bell-O-Shade for the CFI lens.  The shade said it was for Hasselblad CF lens.  The dealers said it would require an adaptor that was not in stock.  Any know if this is true or what are you suggestions for a lens shade?  I have heard the Hasselblad does not have slots for filters.  Weldon


Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com.
------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 17:29:34 -0600 (CST) From: Robert Monaghan To: "Mose, J P" Cc: "'hasselblad@kelvin.net'" Subject: re: avoiding possible SWC/M 38mm biogon damage from filters... Message-ID: see http://people.smu.edu/rmonagha/mf/hassysw.html esp. discussion at bottom basically, Wildi books etc. are wrong in claiming you can use any series VIII filter with the hassy SWC/SWCM. Not true. See reports of damaged SWC coatings from doing so. Having an SWC/M, I can verify that the hassy UV filter for it is offset so the filter glass doesn't touch the lens coatings. My older Kodak series VIII filters are NOT offset, solid glass blanks, so they DO touch the coatings when installed. This contact is presumably the source of damage on some older lenses. (can't be repaired, I'm told, as older front elements no longer available from Zeiss, though some parties may be able to redo the coatings if the glass isn't pitted or scratched? see rmonagha/bronrecoatings.html for details). You can probably put in a ring to use the older filters (see postings) by keeping them from touching the lens surface if you have bunches of them (cheaper..). so check on this before tightening down the filter ring! HTH bobm * Robert Monaghan POB752182 Southern Methodist University, Dallas Tx 75275 * * Third Party 35mm Lenses: http://people.smu.edu/rmonagha/third/index.html * * Medium Format Cameras: http://people.smu.edu/rmonagha/mf/index.html * On Wed, 9 Jan 2002, Mose, J P wrote: > Greetings, > > A couple of months ago I purchased a Super Wide and I am now interested in > purchasing 63mm drop in filters. I have been told that the filter glass can > come in contact with the lens if the filter is dropped in backwards. In > other words, the filter glass has to be offset in its retaining ring in > order not to make contact with the lens. Do all 63mm filters meet this > requirement or will I have to buy Hasselblad filters? ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2002 19:15:32 -0500 From: "Cartier Bresson" To: hasselblad@kelvin.net Subject: Re: [HUG] re: avoiding possible SWC/M 38mm biogon damage from filters... Message-ID: I found other things that Wilde has to say about the SWC to be either wrong or very confusing. When talking about the parrallex problem with the SWC viewfinder he says that the bottom portion of the viewfinder coincides with what the lens records. But, the top and sides are not true to form. He says just take in three (3) inches from the top and sides and you have ide of what is being photographed!!!YIKES. ANy help on understand wha tthe viewfinder sees and what is being covered? thanks, John _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 19:52:32 -0500 From: "john swanson" To: Subject: Film Winding Message-ID: <001101c19971$1695ba30$e20a0a0a@jwscpq> This morning I tried to remove a partially-exposed roll of film from my Hassy 501CM/A12. I released the shutter and cranked the film repeatedly until the last frame was exposed. At that point I could not crank the film through nor would the shutter release again. I tried cranking with the dark slide in and out and neither worked. This is only about the 4th roll of film which has gone through the camera. Finally I removed the film mechanism from the shell and was able to wind the film onto the take-up roll manually. Has anyone else had a problem like this? Would unjamming have cured the problem? Thanks -- John Swanson ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 21:19:56 -0500 From: "Austin Franklin" To: Subject: RE: [HUG] Film Winding Message-ID: Hi John, If I read this right...you should have been at the end of the roll when you were not able to release the shutter/wind the crank (on the body). That's normal...when you want to do this again, just use the crank on the side of the film magazine (the one you used to advance the film to frame 1) to wind the film to the end of the roll... The reason the camera body stops when you reach the last shootable frame is so you know you have no more film... Austin > -----Original Message----- > From: john swanson [mailto:swansonjw@earthlink.net] > Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2002 7:53 PM > To: hasselblad@kelvin.net > Subject: [HUG] Film Winding > > > This morning I tried to remove a partially-exposed roll of film from my > Hassy 501CM/A12. I released the shutter and cranked the film repeatedly > until the last frame was exposed. At that point I could not > crank the film > through nor would the shutter release again. I tried cranking > with the dark > slide in and out and neither worked. > > This is only about the 4th roll of film which has gone through the camera. > Finally I removed the film mechanism from the shell and was able > to wind the > film onto the take-up roll manually. Has anyone else had a problem like > this? Would unjamming have cured the problem? > > Thanks > > -- John Swanson ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 18:58:05 -0800 From: David Gerhardt To: hasselblad@kelvin.net Subject: Re: [HUG] 503CW or 203FE Message-ID: On Wednesday, January 9, 2002, at 10:20 AM, Jim Brick wrote: > At 11:17 AM 1/9/2002 -0500, Charlie Goodwin wrote: > >> Getting the simplest possible Hassy will pay off for you down the road >> many times over. You'll be learning to use the Hasselblad, rather >> than fighting the Hasselblad. No matter if cost is not an objection, >> as you may be saying, I would stick to the essential system first. > > > The nice thing about Hasselblad is that they are completely backward > compatible. Remove the battery from a 203 (a one second job) and you > have a 503. The Focal plane shutter operates just like the 500 series > curtain. C, CF, CB, CFi, & CFE all work exactly as they would on any > 500 series camera. > > Buying a 203 is a no lose situation. You have the best of both "E" and > non "E" worlds. > If you're talking about a "considered foray" into medium format photography (AND, if you're already set on starting with a Hasselblad; an entirely different question that pops up regularly on the MFD), one of the 500 series cameras is a very safe, logical way to start off. However, if you are comfortable with digital/mechanical devices (and money is truly a secondary concern... ) the Hasselblad 203 is no more complicated to operate (in general) than the 500 series regarding loading/unloading film, changing lenses, and setting exposure. You can get a little lost in the use of some of the metering options, but then again, you can simply ignore the options, set it on "A" and use it like a VERY expensive point&shoot (while you're learning... it's sacrilegious to use a 203 like this forever). It depends on your financial situation, photographic experience, and whether or not you just simply WANT one camera over the other. The logical way to go would be to start slow with a 500c/m; but we're all allowed to occasionally reward ourselves for years of hard work ;-) ! Either way, the advice to start with a single lens (and learn it well) is sound. It will minimize your distractions, and allow you to learn to operate the camera instinctively. (they'll both take equally good ----or bad---- photographs) -David Gerhardt (davidgerhardt@mindspring.com) ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 13:22:39 +1000 From: Terry Gatfield To: hasselblad@kelvin.net Subject: Portraiture work Message-ID: I am new to MF and the 500CM and quite green. I have a standard 80mm and want to do close up portraiture work. Money does not allow me the luxury of a 150mm can any body give me wisdom on the use of close up filters and or the use of using close up tubes? ------------------------------ End of hasselblad V1 #1465 ************************** ---------------------------------------------------------------------- The Hasselblad Users Group Listserv is a public service of Absolute Internet, Inc., which is not responsible for its content. This mailing list is in no way affiliated with Victor Hasselblad AB, it's subsidiaries, or affiliates. Please turn off HTML mail features prior to posting to this list. Use text mode only. To change your subscription status, go to: http://mail.kelvin.net/guest/RemoteListSummary/Hasselblad Digest archives are stored at http://www.kelvin.net/hasselblad/hassy.htm