hasselblad Fri, 11 Jan 2002 Volume 1 : Number 1466 In this issue: Re: [HUG] HUG Question Re: [HUG] re: avoiding possible SWC/M 38mm biogon damage from filters... Re: [HUG] Film Winding Re: [HUG] Portraiture work AW: [HUG] re: avoiding possible SWC/M 38mm biogon damage from filters... Re: hasselblad V1 #1465 Re: [HUG] Portraiture work Re: [HUG] HUG Question Re: AW: [HUG] re: avoiding possible SWC/M 38mm biogon damage from filters... Re: 503CW or 203FE AW: AW: [HUG] re: avoiding possible SWC/M 38mm biogon damage from filters... Re: [HUG] 503CW or 203FE Re: Portrait mistakes Re: [HUG] Re: 503CW or 203FE Re: Portraiture work RE: [HUG] 503CW or 203FE Can we stop talking about HTML messages?! Digital options? Re: [HUG] Re: Portrait mistakes Re: [HUG] Can we stop talking about HTML messages?! Re: 500C/M body PC connector (was [HUG] newbie question) Re: AW: [HUG] re: avoiding possible SWC/M 38mm biogon damage from filters... sources for negative diopters Re: [HUG] Re: Portraiture work Re: [HUG] Digital options? Re: [HUG] Digital options? Hasselblad SWC and 150/180 fs: hasselblad list friday 1/11/02 Reply ELM Night Aerial followup of followup ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 13:04:49 +0100 From: "Q.G. de Bakker" To: Subject: Re: [HUG] HUG Question Message-ID: <000a01c199cf$5974ee80$7ae3f1c3@qnu350> Weldon Fincher wrote: >> I recently attempted to purchase a Lindahl Bell-O-Shade for the CFI lens. The shade said it was for Hasselblad CF lens. The dealers said it would require an adaptor that was not in stock. Any know if this is true or what are you suggestions for a lens shade? I have heard the Hasselblad does not have slots for filters. << All accessories fitting CF lenses wil fit CFi/CFE lenses without need for an extra adapter. The Hasselblad Proshade does not have slots to slide in filters, but opens up to allow you to put filters in a filter holder. It takes 100 mm square filters, in any combination upto a maximum thickness of 4 mm. You can use a bayonet mount filter on the lens at the same time. Hasselblad sell cardboard mounts to step up 75 mm gelatin filters in size so they too can be used. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 13:16:37 +0100 From: "Q.G. de Bakker" To: Subject: Re: [HUG] re: avoiding possible SWC/M 38mm biogon damage from filters... Message-ID: <000b01c199d0$a819e080$7ae3f1c3@qnu350> Cartier Bresson wrote: > I found other things that Wilde has to say about the SWC to be either wrong > or very confusing. When talking about the parrallex problem with the SWC > viewfinder he says that the bottom portion of the viewfinder coincides with > what the lens records. But, the top and sides are not true to form. He says > just take in three (3) inches from the top and sides and you have ide of > what is being photographed!!!YIKES. > > ANy help on understand wha tthe viewfinder sees and what is being covered? Wildi is correct (in the 4th edition he in says that you see 5" extra on top, and about 2" on either side. There is a diagram in that edition too explaining the matter). The viewfinder has a larger coverage than the lens (the mentioned 2 - 2.5" on all sides), and is about 2.5" above the lens, shifting its field of view the exact same amount. So you see 5" extra on top (the bottom edge is aligned with what the lens sees because of the higher position of the viewfinder), and 2 - 2.5" extra on either side. These amounts do not change when your subject moves away from the lens, so while 5" is a lot, when expressed as an percentage of field of view, when the lens is set to its close focus limit, it dwindels away when subject distances become larger. Just remember that the image you see through the viewfinder is 2-2.5" wider on either side, and has 5" extra on top, compared to what the lens sees. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 13:20:18 +0100 From: "Q.G. de Bakker" To: Subject: Re: [HUG] Film Winding Message-ID: <001001c199d1$2bb6cf20$7ae3f1c3@qnu350> john swanson wrote: > This morning I tried to remove a partially-exposed roll of film from my > Hassy 501CM/A12. I released the shutter and cranked the film repeatedly > until the last frame was exposed. At that point I could not crank the film > through nor would the shutter release again. I tried cranking with the dark > slide in and out and neither worked. > > This is only about the 4th roll of film which has gone through the camera. > Finally I removed the film mechanism from the shell and was able to wind the > film onto the take-up roll manually. Has anyone else had a problem like > this? Would unjamming have cured the problem? Excuse me for asking, but what crank did you use to wind the film? There's no need to release the shutter and wind the film/reset the camera using the bodies crank if you want to remove a partially exposed roll. Just use the crank on the film magazine to wind the film completely onto the take-up spool. The film back is designed to block (not jam) the camera when the last exposure has been made. You then have to (!) use the crank on the back to wind the roll completely onto the spool. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 13:40:10 +0100 From: "Q.G. de Bakker" To: Subject: Re: [HUG] Portraiture work Message-ID: <001b01c199d3$f2bff4a0$7ae3f1c3@qnu350> Terry Gatfield wrote: > I am new to MF and the 500CM and quite green. I have a standard 80mm and > want to do close up portraiture work. Money does not allow me the luxury of > a 150mm can any body give me wisdom on the use of close up filters and or > the use of using close up tubes? The 80 mm is a bit short for close up portrait work. Its minimum field of view is 43 cm/17" at a lens to subject distance of only 66 cm/26". Getting a tightly framed head shot means you will have to be so close to your subject that things like noses start sticking out in a rather unattractive way. So you should perhaps better confine your portraits to more wide shots until you can use a longer lens. But anyway, using close up lenses is the easiest way to get closer. The attach to the lens as any filter, and do not require any exposure compensation. Proxars are lenses that in combination with the 80 mm lens create a new optical system with a shorter focal length than the nominal focal length of the camera lens. Image quality will suffer somewhat, most on the edges and corners. Using extension tubes (tube 8 is the one to use in conjunction with the 80 mm lens) do not add uncorrected lenses to a well corrected system, and therefore should be favored. But they work by increasing the lens to film distance, and therefor exposure correction must be calculated. Tube 8 will produce a field of view from 57 cm/22" max. to 25 cm/10". The corresponding lens to subject distances are 85 cm/33" to 39 cm/15". Exposure correction ranges from 0.2 to 0.5 stops. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 13:42:27 +0100 From: "Dr. Ulrik Neupert" To: "Q.G. de Bakker" , Subject: AW: [HUG] re: avoiding possible SWC/M 38mm biogon damage from filters... Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01C199DC.A4B9F630 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Let me just add something to clarify this matter (or make it more confusing, that depends). The viewfinder and the lens of the Hasselblad SWC have the same viewing angle, therefore the same area coverage. The difference between what you see and what you get is because the viewfinder is not only mounted above the lens but also a little behind the lens. This has been done in such a way that the bottom edge of viewfinder and picture are identical. This also explains why the extra inches you see at the top and at the sides do not change with distance (as it would be if the viewing angle of lens and viewfinder were not identical. Appearently the amount of parallax at the top should be bigger with SWC/M and 903 SWC-models because the viewfinder has been raised compaired to the original SWC to accomodate polaroid-backs. Greetings to all, have a great new year. Ulrik > Cartier Bresson wrote: > > > I found other things that Wilde has to say about the SWC to be either > wrong > > or very confusing. When talking about the parrallex problem with the SWC > > viewfinder he says that the bottom portion of the viewfinder coincides > with > > what the lens records. But, the top and sides are not true to form. He > says > > just take in three (3) inches from the top and sides and you have ide of > > what is being photographed!!!YIKES. > > > > ANy help on understand wha tthe viewfinder sees and what is > being covered? > > Wildi is correct (in the 4th edition he in says that you see 5" extra on > top, and about 2" on either side. There is a diagram in that edition too > explaining the matter). > The viewfinder has a larger coverage than the lens (the mentioned 2 - 2.5" > on all sides), and is about 2.5" above the lens, shifting its > field of view > the exact same amount. So you see 5" extra on top (the bottom edge is > aligned with what the lens sees because of the higher position of the > viewfinder), and 2 - 2.5" extra on either side. > These amounts do not change when your subject moves away from the lens, so > while 5" is a lot, when expressed as an percentage of field of view, when > the lens is set to its close focus limit, it dwindels away when subject > distances become larger. Just remember that the image you see through the > viewfinder is 2-2.5" wider on either side, and has 5" extra on > top, compared > to what the lens sees. > ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01C199DC.A4B9F630 Content-Type: text/x-vcard; name="Neupert, Ulrik.vcf" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: attachment; filename="Neupert, Ulrik.vcf" BEGIN:VCARD VERSION:2.1 N:Neupert;Ulrik;;Dr. FN:Neupert, Ulrik ORG:Fraunhofer INT;Technologieanalysen u. -vorausschau NOTE;ENCODING=QUOTED-PRINTABLE:=0D=0A TEL;WORK;VOICE:02251/18-224 TEL;HOME;VOICE:02254/969257 TEL;CELL;VOICE:0177-3288009 TEL;WORK;FAX:02251/18-377 TEL;HOME;FAX:0180/505255803418 ADR;WORK:;;Appelsgarten 2;Euskirchen;;53879 LABEL;WORK;ENCODING=QUOTED-PRINTABLE:Appelsgarten 2=0D=0AEuskirchen 53879 ADR;HOME:;;Trierer Str. 45;Weilerswist;;53919 LABEL;HOME;ENCODING=QUOTED-PRINTABLE:Trierer Str. 45=0D=0AWeilerswist 53919 URL;WORK:http://www.int.fhg.de/ EMAIL;PREF;INTERNET:ulrik.neupert@int.fhg.de REV:20011121T114905Z END:VCARD ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01C199DC.A4B9F630-- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 08:45:59 EST From: DaveHodge@aol.com To: hasselblad@kelvin.net Subject: Re: hasselblad V1 #1465 Message-ID: <6e.15ed05c1.296ef517@aol.com> I'm going to be off the net for a couple of weeks, taking care of an estate problem in another state. I just want to reiterate that this is one of the most informative boards I am involved with. I have been in MF a long time: started with a Rolleicord Vb in 1958, got a Kodak Chevron in 1970, a Mamiya 645 in 1978, RB67 in 1995 (but it takes an Olympic weight lifter to use it in the field with a prism finder), and started getting into a Hasselblad system in 1998. Oh, yes, I also have a Rapid Omega 100 that I use strictly for shooting Konica IR film. I was fortunate to have a pro friend who had migrated into school photography and had a 500C he wasn't using on a regular basis. (He had been telling my wife for years he would be glad to loan me a Hasselblad to try out.) I used the 500C for several weeks and memorized the instruction manual and a copy of Wildi, then started building my own system. It is based on 2, 500CM bodies, and I have 50, 80 and 150 lenses, which do the things I was doing with the Mamiy system (mainly landscapes and some architecture). I have invested in some closeup lenses, soft focus lenses, and a few other gimcracks, and I have 4 finders including a Kiev meter finder. I am no longer pretending to be a "professional" photographer (according to PPofA rules, I never was one) and I just do it for fun, am active in 3 regional art associations (past-president of one) and support some 501(c)(3) organizations with my craft. Also I am on several photography boards and try to share my 53 years of photo experience with young people. BUT, I also learn something from this board and others every time I get on. We should never think we are too smart to learn something. My continuing photo project is a photo guide to the Skyline Drive in the Shenandoah National Park. This is about 60% complete. My photography philosophy is: "Good photographs are not made by cameras. Good photographs are made by the little gray cells inside the human brain that are connected to the artist's eye!" If you can't see you, you won't photograph it. Thanks for listening; keep up the good work; and I'll be back in circulation around the 26th of January. David Hodge, Churchville, MD (top of the Chesapeake Bay) ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 21:03:23 -0800 From: Patrick Bartek To: hasselblad@kelvin.net Subject: Re: [HUG] Portraiture work Message-ID: <0201092103230C.29983@localhost.localdomain> On Wednesday 09 January 2002 19:22, Terry Gatfield wrote: > I am new to MF and the 500CM and quite green. I have a standard 80mm > and want to do close up portraiture work. Money does not allow me > the luxury of a 150mm can any body give me wisdom on the use of close > up filters and or the use of using close up tubes? How close do you want to get? Without accessories, the 80 focuses to 0.9 meter (3 feet). At that distance you'd already be getting some perspective distortion in a portrait. -- Patrick Bartek NoLife Polymath Group bartek@intermind.net ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 23:08:14 -0800 From: Patrick Bartek To: hasselblad@kelvin.net Subject: Re: [HUG] HUG Question Message-ID: <0201092050140B.29983@localhost.localdomain> On Wednesday 09 January 2002 15:20, Weldon Fincher wrote: >
>

I recently attempted to purchase a Lindahl Bell-O-Shade for the > CFI lens.  The shade said it was for Hasselblad CF lens.  > The dealers said it would require an adaptor that was not in > stock.  Any know if this is true or what are you suggestions for > a lens shade?  I have heard the Hasselblad does not have slots > for filters.  Weldon


clear=all>
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at href='http://go.msn.com/bql/hmtag_etl_EN.asp'>http://explorer.m > n.com.
Another HTML posting. And it's not even properly coded HTML at that. Even my HTML capable e-mailer couldn't interpret it. I guess the link to Microsoft says it all. -- Patrick Bartek NoLife Polymath Group bartek@intermind.net ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 09:49:19 -0500 From: "Cartier Bresson" To: hasselblad@kelvin.net Subject: Re: AW: [HUG] re: avoiding possible SWC/M 38mm biogon damage from filters... Message-ID: Thanks for the clarification. So then if one were to move forward, at the distance the viewfinder is from the film plane then would the viewfinder indicate the actual coverage? John ----Original Message Follows---- From: "Dr. Ulrik Neupert" Reply-To: hasselblad@kelvin.net To: "Q.G. de Bakker" , Subject: AW: [HUG] re: avoiding possible SWC/M 38mm biogon damage from filters... Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 13:42:27 +0100 Let me just add something to clarify this matter (or make it more confusing, that depends). The viewfinder and the lens of the Hasselblad SWC have the same viewing angle, therefore the same area coverage. The difference between what you see and what you get is because the viewfinder is not only mounted above the lens but also a little behind the lens. This has been done in such a way that the bottom edge of viewfinder and picture are identical. This also explains why the extra inches you see at the top and at the sides do not change with distance (as it would be if the viewing angle of lens and viewfinder were not identical. Appearently the amount of parallax at the top should be bigger with SWC/M and 903 SWC-models because the viewfinder has been raised compaired to the original SWC to accomodate polaroid-backs. Greetings to all, have a great new year. Ulrik > Cartier Bresson wrote: > > > I found other things that Wilde has to say about the SWC to be either > wrong > > or very confusing. When talking about the parrallex problem with the SWC > > viewfinder he says that the bottom portion of the viewfinder coincides > with > > what the lens records. But, the top and sides are not true to form. He > says > > just take in three (3) inches from the top and sides and you have ide of > > what is being photographed!!!YIKES. > > > > ANy help on understand wha tthe viewfinder sees and what is > being covered? > > Wildi is correct (in the 4th edition he in says that you see 5" extra on > top, and about 2" on either side. There is a diagram in that edition too > explaining the matter). > The viewfinder has a larger coverage than the lens (the mentioned 2 - 2.5" > on all sides), and is about 2.5" above the lens, shifting its > field of view > the exact same amount. So you see 5" extra on top (the bottom edge is > aligned with what the lens sees because of the higher position of the > viewfinder), and 2 - 2.5" extra on either side. > These amounts do not change when your subject moves away from the lens, so > while 5" is a lot, when expressed as an percentage of field of view, when > the lens is set to its close focus limit, it dwindels away when subject > distances become larger. Just remember that the image you see through the > viewfinder is 2-2.5" wider on either side, and has 5" extra on > top, compared > to what the lens sees. > << Neupert,Ulrik.vcf >> _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 10:01:33 -0500 From: Henry Posner/B&H Photo-Video To: Subject: Re: 503CW or 203FE Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20020110100000.05318800@bnhpop1.bhphotovideo.com> At 03:58 AM 01/10/2002, you wrote: >First, if you were me and price aside, would you buy mechanical or >electronic? why? Price aside, I think your first consideration should be whether you'd primarily prefer leaf of focal plane systems. The former offers flash sync at all speeds; the latter offers faster lenses. I know that with 'blad you can swap lens and use leaf lenses on a focal plane body, but if all you'll ever us is leaf shutter, the 5xx series is probably the way to go. -- regards, Henry Posner Director of Sales and Training B&H Photo-Video, and Pro-Audio Inc. http://www.bhphotovideo.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 16:05:10 +0100 From: "Dr. Ulrik Neupert" To: Subject: AW: AW: [HUG] re: avoiding possible SWC/M 38mm biogon damage from filters... Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0018_01C199F0.94968DE0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > Thanks for the clarification. > So then if one were to move forward, at the distance the > viewfinder is from > the film plane then would the viewfinder indicate the actual coverage? > > John Moving a bit forward and downward, yes, don't know the exact distance, should be easy to calculate. If you use a Hasselblad SWC at short distances where this matters you should consider using a groundglass attachment (+tripod of course). Ulrik ------=_NextPart_000_0018_01C199F0.94968DE0 Content-Type: text/x-vcard; name="Neupert, Ulrik.vcf" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: attachment; filename="Neupert, Ulrik.vcf" BEGIN:VCARD VERSION:2.1 N:Neupert;Ulrik;;Dr. FN:Neupert, Ulrik ORG:Fraunhofer INT;Technologieanalysen u. -vorausschau NOTE;ENCODING=QUOTED-PRINTABLE:=0D=0A TEL;WORK;VOICE:02251/18-224 TEL;HOME;VOICE:02254/969257 TEL;CELL;VOICE:0177-3288009 TEL;WORK;FAX:02251/18-377 TEL;HOME;FAX:0180/505255803418 ADR;WORK:;;Appelsgarten 2;Euskirchen;;53879 LABEL;WORK;ENCODING=QUOTED-PRINTABLE:Appelsgarten 2=0D=0AEuskirchen 53879 ADR;HOME:;;Trierer Str. 45;Weilerswist;;53919 LABEL;HOME;ENCODING=QUOTED-PRINTABLE:Trierer Str. 45=0D=0AWeilerswist 53919 URL;WORK:http://www.int.fhg.de/ EMAIL;PREF;INTERNET:ulrik.neupert@int.fhg.de REV:20011121T114905Z END:VCARD ------=_NextPart_000_0018_01C199F0.94968DE0-- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 23:05:47 +0800 From: "youheng" To: Subject: Re: [HUG] 503CW or 203FE Message-ID: <00e801c199e8$995484c0$0239a03d@shen> Thanks to all the responses. Here I reply in one mail, and sorry for my miserable English. First, for your interest on me: I'm learning photography with a very little 35mm's and decided to skip to go directly MF. (35mm is being replaced by ccd/cmos isn't it?) Then I learned Hassy is the king so to go with right from the start. As I have no experience on MF, choosing the right system is difficult, because it would be a large sum, I cannot afford mistake. Oh, when I said "price aside" I just meant to have the right system not that I'm Bill Gates (Bill Gates would buy anything he want and when he dislike it he throw it out of the windows), I've set aside a sum, if it's not enough for the RIGHT system I have to postpone the purchase, and I have other items (printer, scanner, computer...) to buy in order to have a complete photosys. I'm not going to use the camera as a toy, I hope it will boost my main business (and at least get back what I paid) -- prepress related like scanning/layout/short-run and photo print service, not as hi-end as you'd think and is in the setting-up. Because of my poor experience I'm leaning toward the 203 for its metering and auto, but is the electronic more vulnerable than the mechanical? not that reliable? problematic? However, if the 501CM IS the RIGHT system for me, 203 is a waste, the saved money should go for a better printer. But now I just have no idea of these systems, their pros & cons, how difficult for a pupil to master the mechanical manual ones. Most of the replies suggested 500's accompanied with warning of steep learning curve, which way to go??? I never imagined the Hassy system will be so hard to operate as you pointed out (I think get great photo is), it's discouraging and then challenging. I'll dig the archives and the net to study more. It's been said: the most effective way to have a man go bankruptcy is to give him a camera. Let's urge Bill Gates then sitting under the windows waiting his throw-outs :-) > Look through the archives at http://www.kelvin.net/hasselblad/hassy.htm and > do a search on "203fe" on www.photo.net -- you'll find threads in both > If this is your first MF camera, I would suggest a used 500C/M "kit" (body, > Getting the simplest possible Hassy will pay off for you down the road many times over. You'll be learning > ..... acquire any further items piece by piece > The camera habit is addictive. > Burn film. Ask questions. Wait on getting a big system. > The nice thing about Hasselblad is that they are completely backward > compatible. Remove the battery from a 203 (a one second job) and you have a 503 > get a little lost in the use of some of the metering options, but then > again, you can simply ignore the options, set it on "A" and use it like > a VERY expensive point&shoot (while you're learning... it's sacrilegious > to use a 203 like this forever). > Either way, the advice to start with a single lens (and learn it well) Thank you so much! A great list I wonder why I hadn't found it earlier! JM Shen ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 10:12:38 -0500 From: Henry Posner/B&H Photo-Video To: Subject: Re: Portrait mistakes Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20020110100920.05318950@bnhpop1.bhphotovideo.com> At 03:58 AM 01/10/2002, you wrote: >I meter for the key, get an 11, meter for both, get a 16. Take -1 for the >tube (really less, more like -1/3 I'm thinking) and shoot XP2 (rrated at >320) at an 8. The symptoms of my not very satisfactory shots. 1) a lot of >soft focus, probably caused by an f8 stop and a fidgitty 10-year-old? 2) an >very muddy BG. It didn't go dead black as I had hoped, possibly from spill >from the OH softbox? Move it back further? and 3) Overall lack of >contrast, possibly from the negatives being 1-2 stops overexposed, proofed >in a mini-lab and auto-leveled? > >I know this is complex and I am not asking for a mini-studio lighting >seminar here, but if any of you have some experience and can shed some (dare >I say) light on the subject, I'd appreciate a note off-list. 1) Can you post some samples online? 2) If you're shooting XP-2, which is chromogenic film, who's doing your printing? Maybe the black background is bamboozling their darkroom meters. Ask for reprints. 3) Try the setup w/out the tube (and w/out the tube compensation) as a test. 4) Moving the background further back should mean less light on it and render it totally dark. Or, switch from velour, which is actually relatively shiny to felt. -- regards, Henry Posner Director of Sales and Training B&H Photo-Video, and Pro-Audio Inc. http://www.bhphotovideo.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 10:11:59 -0500 (EST) From: Rei Shinozuka To: hasselblad@kelvin.net Subject: Re: [HUG] Re: 503CW or 203FE Message-ID: <200201101512.KAA25975@tigercat.nyfir.pwj.com> the 503 also has a very nice winder with a release and IR remote. -rei > From: Henry Posner/B&H Photo-Video > > Price aside, I think your first consideration should be whether you'd > primarily prefer leaf of focal plane systems. The former offers flash sync > at all speeds; the latter offers faster lenses. I know that with 'blad you > can swap lens and use leaf lenses on a focal plane body, but if all you'll > ever us is leaf shutter, the 5xx series is probably the way to go. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 10:16:50 -0500 From: Henry Posner/B&H Photo-Video To: Subject: Re: Portraiture work Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20020110101447.05319160@bnhpop1.bhphotovideo.com> At 03:58 AM 01/10/2002, you wrote: >I am new to MF and the 500CM and quite green. I have a standard 80mm and >want to do close up portraiture work. Money does not allow me the luxury of >a 150mm can any body give me wisdom on the use of close up filters and or >the use of using close up tubes? The benefit of a/k/a diopters is they don't alter exposure. Extension tubes which go between body & lens introduce "bellows factor" into your exposure. OTOH, diopters introduce more glass, and can affect image quality. If you choose diopters, spring for the significantly superior dual element "achromat" types. See . -- regards, Henry Posner Director of Sales and Training B&H Photo-Video, and Pro-Audio Inc. http://www.bhphotovideo.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 10:49:06 -0500 From: "Austin Franklin" To: Subject: RE: [HUG] 503CW or 203FE Message-ID: Hi JM, > But now I just have no idea of these > systems, their pros & cons, how difficult for a pupil to master the > mechanical manual ones. They are not really difficult, just takes someone to show you how, and a little practice. You might want to say where you are located, and there may be a list member nearby. Also, you might want to consider renting one to get a feel for it...plus the rental place can show you how to use it ;-) Austin ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 08:16:43 -0800 From: george day To: Subject: Can we stop talking about HTML messages?! Message-ID: No offense to anyone, but we all get the message. Or some don't. Whatever and no big deal. Can we please just drop this thread? On 1/9/02 11:08 PM, "Patrick Bartek" wrote: > On Wednesday 09 January 2002 15:20, Weldon Fincher wrote: > >>
>>

I recently attempted to purchase a Lindahl Bell-O-Shade for the >> CFI lens.  The shade said it was for Hasselblad CF lens.  >> The dealers said it would require an adaptor that was not in >> stock.  Any know if this is true or what are you suggestions for >> a lens shade?  I have heard the Hasselblad does not have slots >> for filters.  Weldon


> clear=all>
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at > href='http://go.msn.com/bql/hmtag_etl_EN.asp'>http://explorer.m >> n.com.
> > Another HTML posting. And it's not even properly coded HTML at that. > Even my HTML capable e-mailer couldn't interpret it. I guess the > link to Microsoft says it all. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 08:39:03 -0800 From: "Daniel K. Lee" To: hasselblad@kelvin.net Subject: Digital options? Message-ID: But what are the digital options with a Hasselblad. Are there any at all? And has anyone seen the new Canon EOS 1D? It looks pretty amazing. Trying to figure out....digital or Hassy...either way it's serious $$$ ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 09:15:47 -0800 From: "Tourtelot" To: Subject: Re: [HUG] Re: Portrait mistakes Message-ID: <001201c199fa$726ffc60$6401a8c0@attbi.com> These were in fact mini-lab sepia previews so I may go ahead and get a print made. The XP2 certainly could have fooled the printer. Thanks. D. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Henry Posner/B&H Photo-Video" To: Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2002 7:12 AM Subject: [HUG] Re: Portrait mistakes > At 03:58 AM 01/10/2002, you wrote: > >I meter for the key, get an 11, meter for both, get a 16. Take -1 for the > >tube (really less, more like -1/3 I'm thinking) and shoot XP2 (rrated at > >320) at an 8. The symptoms of my not very satisfactory shots. 1) a lot of > >soft focus, probably caused by an f8 stop and a fidgitty 10-year-old? 2) an > >very muddy BG. It didn't go dead black as I had hoped, possibly from spill > >from the OH softbox? Move it back further? and 3) Overall lack of > >contrast, possibly from the negatives being 1-2 stops overexposed, proofed > >in a mini-lab and auto-leveled? > > > >I know this is complex and I am not asking for a mini-studio lighting > >seminar here, but if any of you have some experience and can shed some (dare > >I say) light on the subject, I'd appreciate a note off-list. > > 1) Can you post some samples online? > 2) If you're shooting XP-2, which is chromogenic film, who's doing your > printing? Maybe the black background is bamboozling their darkroom meters. > Ask for reprints. > 3) Try the setup w/out the tube (and w/out the tube compensation) as a test. > 4) Moving the background further back should mean less light on it and > render it totally dark. Or, switch from velour, which is actually > relatively shiny to felt. > > -- > regards, > Henry Posner > Director of Sales and Training > B&H Photo-Video, and Pro-Audio Inc. > http://www.bhphotovideo.com > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > The Hasselblad Users Group Listserv is a public service of Absolute Internet, Inc., which is not responsible for its content. This mailing list is in no way affiliated with Victor Hasselblad AB, it's subsidiaries, or affiliates. > > Please turn off HTML mail features prior to posting to this list. Use text mode only. > > To change your subscription status, go to: http://mail.kelvin.net/guest/RemoteListSummary/Hasselblad > Digest archives are stored at http://www.kelvin.net/hasselblad/hassy.htm > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 09:16:21 -0800 From: "Tourtelot" To: Subject: Re: [HUG] Can we stop talking about HTML messages?! Message-ID: <001901c199fa$863e7b40$6401a8c0@attbi.com> Second. D. ----- Original Message ----- From: "george day" To: Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2002 8:16 AM Subject: [HUG] Can we stop talking about HTML messages?! > No offense to anyone, but we all get the message. Or some don't. Whatever > and no big deal. Can we please just drop this thread? > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 12:03:19 -0600 (CST) From: Tim Dawson To: hasselblad@kelvin.net Subject: Re: 500C/M body PC connector (was [HUG] newbie question) Message-ID: <200201101803.g0AI3JYI026565@tpcsvc.com> Just going back over old mail, and don't know if I answered this before. Happened to talk to my repair guy on this, and he said that he had seen a lot of bodies used this way as cameras for medical imaging - photomicrography, etc. where no lens was used, and all exposures were flash through a microscope or some such, and this is how the flashes were controlled. Said that they did this at (I think) Baylor, and that they used 70mm backs and ran 50 to 60 rolls per DAY. They were honestly wearing out the backs withing warranty! - Tim > Thanks Tim- > > Any idea what it was used for? > > D. > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Tim Dawson" > To: > Sent: Friday, December 07, 2001 2:20 PM > Subject: Re: [HUG] newbie question > > > > This on-body sync is a sync to the internal shutters in the body, and from > the > > standpoint of flash photography, pretty much useless, and as such, they > were > > only on the very early 500 C/M bodies, and never since. The Sync terminal > WILL > > be on the Lens (any series) for a foo series 'Blad. On yours, with the C > lens, > > the connector will be right next to a lever with "X M T" printed near it. > > The X select X sync, the M selects M sync, and T is a mechanical > self-timer, > > ending in the shutter firing with X sync. > > > > - Tim > > > > [ Charset ISO-8859-1 unsupported, converting... ] > > > I am the proud new owner of a proud old 500C/M with a 80/2.8C. And once > I > > > find that darned light leak . . . .! > > > > > > My question: my 500C/M body has a PC flash sync socket on the left hand > > > side, matched up with the threaded hole for the cable hook. From the > roll I > > > just got back, it seems NOT to be an "X" sync with the Compur shutter in > the > > > lens. Okay, now what is it?? My poor over-shot daughters will be quite > > > annoyed when I ask them to sit for yoet another test roll. > > > > > > Also looking for a user "old-style (read inexpensive) A-12 mag. > > > Also have a quick focus ring #2 to trade for a #1. > > > > Dunno how many takers you will get for this, since the #2 is not that > > popular. I bought one of each not too long ago, both in the same condion, > > and paid about $50.00 for the #1, and about $10.00 for the #2. > > > > > > > Also looking for a "not thrashed" B50 lens shade for the 80/2.8C. > > > > Check KEH, they usually have these for a fairly decent price. > > > > > > > > TIA for all. > > > > > > Regards, > > > > > > Douglas Tourtelot, CAS > > > Seattle, WA > > > tourtelot1@attbi.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > > > > The Hasselblad Users Group Listserv is a public service of Absolute > Internet, Inc., which is not responsible for its content. This mailing list > is in no way affiliated with Victor Hasselblad AB, it's subsidiaries, or > affiliates. > > > > > > Please turn off HTML mail features prior to posting to this list. Use > text mode only. > > > > > > To change your subscription status, go to: > http://mail.kelvin.net/guest/RemoteListSummary/Hasselblad > > > Digest archives are stored at http://www.kelvin.net/hasselblad/hassy.htm > > > > > > > -- > > > ============================================================================ > ==== > > Tim Dawson (tadawson@tpcsvc.com) Owner/Engineer > > TPC Services Bellnet: > (972)-221-7385 > > Lewisville, Texas 75067 FAXnet: > (972)-221-0393 > > "The world is complex. Sendmail.cf reflects this...." > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > > The Hasselblad Users Group Listserv is a public service of Absolute > Internet, Inc., which is not responsible for its content. This mailing list > is in no way affiliated with Victor Hasselblad AB, it's subsidiaries, or > affiliates. > > > > Please turn off HTML mail features prior to posting to this list. Use > text mode only. > > > > To change your subscription status, go to: > http://mail.kelvin.net/guest/RemoteListSummary/Hasselblad > > Digest archives are stored at http://www.kelvin.net/hasselblad/hassy.htm > > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > The Hasselblad Users Group Listserv is a public service of Absolute Internet, Inc., which is not responsible for its content. This mailing list is in no way affiliated with Victor Hasselblad AB, it's subsidiaries, or affiliates. > > Please turn off HTML mail features prior to posting to this list. Use text mode only. > > To change your subscription status, go to: http://mail.kelvin.net/guest/RemoteListSummary/Hasselblad > Digest archives are stored at http://www.kelvin.net/hasselblad/hassy.htm > -- ================================================================================ Tim Dawson (tadawson@tpcsvc.com) Owner/Engineer TPC Services Bellnet: (972)-221-7385 Lewisville, Texas 75067 FAXnet: (972)-221-0393 "The world is complex. Sendmail.cf reflects this...." ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 19:39:45 +0100 From: "Q.G. de Bakker" To: Subject: Re: AW: [HUG] re: avoiding possible SWC/M 38mm biogon damage from filters... Message-ID: <002101c19a06$2dd687c0$34d8f1c3@qnu350> Cartier Bresson wrote: > Thanks for the clarification. > So then if one were to move forward, at the distance the viewfinder is from > the film plane then would the viewfinder indicate the actual coverage? No. There's still the vertical displacement to consider. But if you would not just move the camera forward the appropriate amount (not the distance the viewfinder is from the film plane, but the distance the viewfinder's front is from the lens' front), but also raise it 2.5" after framing and before exposing it will record on film what you saw in the viewfinder. Mind you, the difference in viewfinder image and what will be recorded on film is very small, not worth the trouble of moving the camera up and forward between framing and exposing unless you're getting really close. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 13:46:12 -0600 (CST) From: Robert Monaghan To: hasselblad@kelvin.net Subject: sources for negative diopters Re: [HUG] Re: Portraiture work Message-ID: anybody know of a source for negative diopter lenses (such as those required by the example in the recent thread)? multi-element achromatic negative diopter lenses? I don't mean the small ones for eyepieces and prisms, but the larger size ones for modifying lens focal lengths per the recent discussion, in sizes of 50mm and up? and how about fractional diopter lenses (+1/2, +1/3, +1/4th diopter)? These are pretty handy for telephotos in closeups, esp. portraiture. Main source has been older telephoto accessory fractional diopter lenses for 200mm nikkor (for bronica S2A) and similar lenses (e.g., 67mm size). I suspect some optics houses like edmund scientific could supply some negative elements, but the larger size custom optical elements are quite pricey, esp. if BBAR coated, and lack filter rings etc. and these are usually single elements. Some of the war surplus items are usable, but many are odd shapes for periscopes etc. so your options are limited ;-( The ideal item would be one of the old negative diopter lens kits (similar to the closeup lens kit, but for tele lenses)? thanks for any hints or suggestions ;-) bobm * Robert Monaghan POB752182 Southern Methodist University, Dallas Tx 75275 * * Third Party 35mm Lenses: http://people.smu.edu/rmonagha/third/index.html * * Medium Format Cameras: http://people.smu.edu/rmonagha/mf/index.html * ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 22:34:07 +0100 From: Lars Haven To: hasselblad@kelvin.net Subject: Re: [HUG] Digital options? Message-ID: <3C3E08CF.632A9DD2@worldonline.dk> "Daniel K. Lee" wrote: > > But what are the digital options with a Hasselblad. Are there any at all? > And has anyone seen the new Canon EOS 1D? It looks pretty amazing. Trying > to figure out....digital or Hassy...either way it's serious $$$ > I have been lurking on this fine list for a while now. Time to de-lurk. I have seen at leat one digital option. See www.imacon.dk in the products section. I do not have any idea on prices or availability, but I expect the things will be expensive. Best wishes Lars ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 23:37:38 +0100 From: "Q.G. de Bakker" To: Subject: Re: [HUG] Digital options? Message-ID: <014801c19a27$69558960$34d8f1c3@qnu350> Lars Haven wrote: > > But what are the digital options with a Hasselblad. Are there any at all? > > And has anyone seen the new Canon EOS 1D? It looks pretty amazing. Trying > > to figure out....digital or Hassy...either way it's serious $$$ > > > I have been lurking on this fine list for a while now. Time to de-lurk. > > I have seen at leat one digital option. See www.imacon.dk in the products > section. I do not have any idea on prices or availability, but I expect > the things will be expensive. If you want to go digital without using film there are plenty options too. In fact, i don't know any manufacturer of digital backs that doesn't offer Hasselblad as camera platform, even Rollei! CreoScitex's Leaf C-Most (6.6 MegaPixel, approx. Euro 10,250); Heidelberg's Colorcam (6.3 MP, Euro 22,000); Imacon's two types of Flexframe (6 and 16 MP, Euro 23,000 and 27,500); Jenoptik's Eyelike (6.3 MP, Euro 19,000); Kodak's Pro Back Plus (16 MP, Euro 28,000); Megavision's S3 and S4 (6 and 16 MP, Euro 18,000 and 21,500); Mosaic Imaging's Luma (6 MP, Euro 20,800); PhaseOne's Lightphase and H20 (6 and 16 MP, Euro 22,000 and 26,500); Rollei's Gamma C6 (6 MP, Euro 22,500); and Sinar's Back 23 and Back 44 (6 and 16 MP, Euro 28,500 and 20,900/27,500). Imacon produces very high quality scanners to scan your negatives and slides as wel. Nikon and Polaroid too make good scanners (not quite as good as the Imacon, but plenty good enough). Minolta is joining them, but i don't know enough about their latest product to comment. All scanners produce considerably (!) more MegaPixels than any of the current available backs. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 14:41:49 -0800 From: Andreas Mueller To: hasselblad@kelvin.net Subject: Hasselblad SWC and 150/180 Message-ID: <3C3E18AD.ECA42A38@lbl.gov> I am on the market for a Hasselblad SWC and a 150/180 lens. I would like to hear some opinions about the quality of the different versions. I know there is a SWC, a SWC/M taking the polaroid back and the level moved into the viewfinder with the 903 model and multicoating versions are out since the SWC/M. What are the main differences between the 150 and the 180, besides the focal length. I plan to use them for "all purpose". I had rented a 180 and a SWC and the results were very satisfying in terms of equipment quality, not all the way done to the photographic results what is my responsibility. I am pretty rather new to MF. Intending to buy a used SWC I have got some questions: What can be wrong besides obvious marks, dents, scratches on the glass, yes it would be nice if the shutter speed is checked. Is there any quality difference between different versions, ok with multicoating there is less danger of flare. Any opinions about prices for good deals for used SWCs - are ebay prices reasonable, most SWCs on ebay are not sold, are they asking for too much, I guess so. I also know there are some at KEH, Adorama, etc., any more suggestions ? Is there a difference between chrome and black. Older ones seem to be only chrome, newer ones both of them. About the usage about chrome lenses I would like to know in general. I plan to buy a used 150 or 180 as well. I am using a 503CW so I don't need the e-version for the 150/180. Is anybody out selling one of these items soon ? Thank you in advance for comments and ideas. Andreas ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 00:02:44 EST From: Photovilla@aol.com To: hasselblad@kelvin.net Subject: fs: hasselblad list friday 1/11/02 Message-ID: <82.15d3586d.296fcbf4@aol.com> The following Hassy gear is offered for sale. I am an authorized Hasselblad USA dealer and most of this gear is checked by Hasselblad USA and includes a six month USA warranty. Other gear is in unused/new condition and features a 2 year USA warranty. Please call for details: (646) 613-1107. Piezography inks in stock! PS- I am a one-man dealership, so please do leave a message if I don't pick up. I always call back! Rich www.photovillage.com (2 blocks south of the Leica Gallery on Bway in SoHo, NYC) Hasselblad 553 ELX black, with speed grip & w.l., good condition $1595 Hasselblad 501 CM kit, w/80CFE lens (not CB!), A12, Mint-, w/6 month US warr. and PM90 prism $2595! Hasselblad 503 CW, chrome, Exc/Exc+, 6 month US warr. $1395 Hasselblad 501 CM chrome body, Exc, good user, six month US warr. $945 Hasselblad 555 ELD Mint, chrome, 6 month US warr. $2695 Hasselblad 203 FE chrome, Exc+, 6 month US warr. was, $2295, now $1995 Hasselblad Xpan kit, w/45mm lens, shade, level, complete, 2 year US warr. Unopened/unused $1595 (one left) Hasselblad Xpan 30mm lens kit, w/finder/center filter, 2 yr US., unopened, was $2595, now $2049!!! Hasselblad Xpan 90mm lens, Mint- in bubble $449 Hasselblad 30 CFi Mint, six month US warr. $4495 Hasselblad 40CFE Mint-, six month US warr. $2795 Hasselblad 50CFi Mint, six month US. warr. $1995 Hasselblad 50CFI, Exc++/Mint-, six month US warr. $1895!!! Hasselblad 50 FE, (20516) Exc/Exc+, six month US warr. $1895 Hasselblad 50CF lens, black, Exc+, clean glass was $895, now $795!!!! ***this weeks web special*** Hasselblad 60 CF lens, black, good user, six month US warr. was $1195, now $1095 Hasselblad 60 CFi lens, new in box, 2 year warr. $1795 Hasselblad 80 CFE lens, latest, US 6 month warr., flawless! $1295 Hasselblad 110 FE lens, Exc+/Mint-, six month US warr. $2595 Hasselblad 120 CFi lens, latest, US 6 month warr. $1995 Hasselblad 150 CF lens, Exc++, black, perf. glass $1495 Hasselblad 180 CFi, Exc++/Mint-, US six month warr. $2395 Hasselblad 250 CFi Mint, six month US warr. $2299 Hasselblad 500f8 Good glass, six month US warr. User $2495 Hasselblad PC Mutar (20311) Exc+, six month US warr. $1895 Hasselblad 2xe teleconverter, Exc++, six month US warr. $895! Hasselblad 1.4 XE APO Exc++/Mint-, perf. glass, 6 month US warr. $899 Hasselblad A12 chrome, Mint (30212) six month US warr. $595 Hasselblad A12 black, Exc+, good user, six month US warr. $495 Hasselblad A12 chrome, old style, good user, six month US warr. $450 Hasselblad A24 old style (30104) good user, six month US warr. $495 Hasselblad A16, previous style, New, USA, 2 year warr. set of three $1500 Hasselblad 70mm back, chrome, good user, six month US warr. $295 Hasselblad A32 chrome, old style, six month US warr., Mint $550 Hasselblad E12 chrome, Mint, six month US warr. $695 Hasselblad E12 chrome, Exc+, six month US warr. $550 Hasselblad PM90 prism, New, USA was $695, now $495! ***web special!*** Hasselblad PME45 meter prism, Mint, six month US warr. $1099 Rare Cache of Hasselblad Projectors have been found! PCP80 Projector with 250mm lens, Exc+ with six month US warr. (never available!) was $3195, now $2695 Please call or email for more details. I will be in from 12:30 until 8pm Friday and from about 1-7pm Saturday EST. I am also a Leica, Nikon, Mamiya, Schneider, B+W, Horseman, Toyo, Piezography, USA dealer and much more! Call for a chat about any of the gear you are looking for! Rich www.photovillage.com (646) 613-1107 ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 21:33:28 -0800 From: To: hasselblad@kelvin.net Subject: Reply Message-ID: -------Phoenix-Boundary-07081998- Content-type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-transfer-encoding: Quoted-printable Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 13:22:39 +1000 From: Terry Gatfield To: hasselblad@kelvin.net Subject: Portraiture work Message-ID: I am new to MF and the 500CM and quite green. I have a standard 80mm and want to do close up portraiture work. Money does not allow me the luxury of a 150mm can any body give me wisdom on the use of close up filters and or the use of using close up tubes=3F Terry - Perhaps I've misunderstood your post. A 150mm or an 80mm with an extension tube would not seem to be comparable alternatives. Did you perhaps mean an 80mm with a teleconvertor=3F If that's the case, I would save for the 150mm. You might find a deal, but my research has indicated that a 150mm would be a cheaper than the 2X teleconvertor (on the used market) plus you would only loose 1 stop vs. 2. Also, you could consider 'trading' the 80mm for a 150mm if portraits are most important but I would hang on to it if at all possible. In any event, enjoy your Hasselblad -- many pleasant surprises await you. Richard -------Phoenix-Boundary-07081998--- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 22:06:58 -0800 From: "Gary Todoroff" To: Subject: ELM Night Aerial followup of followup Message-ID: <002b01c19a66$312da060$682d0dce@g4s5g1> Sheese, lightning hit twice on this night-time aerial shot, photographed again (I posted my trials of the 1st attempt a couple days ago) on Tuesday afternoon with floating buoys defining the low-tide line. Ground targets were shot right on, and the color neg film was developed yesterday. Lab called and there was not a single hint of an image - g r o a n. Took the magazine off the ELM, looked thru the lens (100/3.5 C T*), fired it - no light. The shutter had stuck! Lens will get shipped to California Precision Camera in Sacramento (technician Teddie - nice guy) tomorrow for overhaul. I reshot the aerial scene of Humboldt Bay for the THIRD time today with the 80/2.8 C T* and will take the film in tomorrow. Earlier, after fiddling with the 100/3.5 it started working again, so I put it on the spare ELM with Ken-Lab K-6 Gyro and double handled grip - always makes me feel like a door gunner - which is about as rock solid a handheld combo as you can find. Late afternoon and sunset light over Eureka was beautiful, so I shot two rolls of oblique aerials with Fuji Provia 400F (1/500 f5.6 - f8) and developed it in the JOBO tonight. The 100 lens did work this time (still sending it in for repair tho) and produced stunning images of slanting light over the entrance to the bay, distant Eel River Valley and the Eureka harbor and streets. A fishing boat obliged by positioning itself perfectly parallel along the new boardwalk with shining wake behind. Can hardly wait for film to dry to study them closely. The 100 produces incredibly sharp photographs from the air and I just love that lens - when it works. From now on, before any assignment, I will always test a Hassey lens shutter first! Live and learn . . . When at first you don't succeed . . . etc, etc . . Gary Todoroff ------------------------------ End of hasselblad V1 #1466 ************************** ---------------------------------------------------------------------- The Hasselblad Users Group Listserv is a public service of Absolute Internet, Inc., which is not responsible for its content. This mailing list is in no way affiliated with Victor Hasselblad AB, it's subsidiaries, or affiliates. Please turn off HTML mail features prior to posting to this list. Use text mode only. To change your subscription status, go to: http://mail.kelvin.net/guest/RemoteListSummary/Hasselblad Digest archives are stored at http://www.kelvin.net/hasselblad/hassy.htm