hasselblad Sat, 31 Jan 1998 Volume 1 : Number 86 In this issue: Spot metering Leaky backs--Have the felt replaced--a 15 minute deal, notches RE: more on film back leaks Auto Fill Flash Sa multicoating and the UV Sonnar Re: Hasselblad Lens Guide - Update Re: Sa multicoating and the UV Sonnar Re: Hasselblad Lens Guide - Update Re: Leaky backs--Have the felt replaced--a 15 minute deal, Re: Re: Hasselblad Lens Guide - Update Re: Sa multicoating and the UV Sonnar Re: Spot metering ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 30 Jan 1998 15:32:15 +0100 From: Ulrik Neupert To: hasselblad@kelvin.net Subject: Spot metering Message-ID: <34D1E46F.F81F8B7C@int.fhg.de> Can the spot-metering of the new PME90 metering prism be used together with a focusing screen that has microprisms and split-image in the center ? I would like to know that before I change to one of these fancy new focusing screens. Ulrik ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 30 Jan 1998 06:31:44 -0800 (PST) From: Martin Krieger To: Hasselblad Subject: Leaky backs--Have the felt replaced--a 15 minute deal, Message-ID: which I believe Hasselblad will send you and you can do it yourself, too. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 30 Jan 1998 09:37:21 -0500 From: "Brian" To: Subject: notches Message-ID: <199801301431.JAA22319@interceptor.jaguNET.com> Andy Peters Wrote: I opened up the camera bag, pulled out one of the two backs and = saw matching notches......... These notches are NORMAL for all Hasselbald film backs... it's a identification mark to show that the photos where shot with a Hasselbald. The light leak problem is a bad gasket, I had a similar problem a few years ago on one of my A12 backs...... then it only cost about $35.00 to repair. Brian ------------------------------ Date: 29 Jan 98 16:07:06 +0800 From: "Patrick Bartek" To: hasselblad@kelvin.net Subject: RE: more on film back leaks Message-ID: <34D0A92A.MD-0.198.bartek@skylink.net> On Thu, 29 Jan 1998 10:11:04 -0700, Andy Peters wrote: > I mentioned in a recent post about how one of my 12 backs leaks > light. Here's an update... > > I had developed a roll of film and noticed that I had some light > leaks. These light leaks only occur if the shot was taken outdoors > in daylight - flash pictures are not affected. I looked at the > negative a bit closer and noticed that there were two little > "notches" on one side of frame. I opened up the camera bag, pulled > out one of the two backs and saw matching notches. A-ha! That must > be the bad back, so I put it aside. > > I shot some more things (mostly indoors with flash) and just > recently shot some outdoor things. And the light leak is back! So > I looked closely at BOTH film backs and noticed that BOTH of them > have IDENTICAL notches in the side. Does anyone know what these > notches are for? They are a Hasselblad trademark. Every frame of film you shoot will have the "two notches" so anyone, who is in the photo related industry, looking at your negs or chromes will know they where shot with a 'Blad. Nice gimmick, huh? PS. They are not the cause of your problem. > Additionally, the light leak doesn't start > from the side of the frame where the darkslide enters the back (as I > said before) - it starts on the other side. Closer inspection also > reveals that one of the backs has a little gap between the where the > outside shell of the back meets the inside. Perhaps light is > leaking through there? Check carefully and remember that the way you view a contact sheet or the actually negative (right-side up) is not the way the image is formed on the film when it is in the back. Do this -- take one of the fogged negs; now, viewing as you normally would, turn it upside down. The notches should be on your right and the film emulsion pointed away from you. If the streaks of light are on the left (that is, opposite the notches), 99% surety that you have a bad light trap where the slide goes in. A way to test for a bad trap is with the back empty and off the camera, remove the slide, angle the back so that you are viewing the edge of the light trap from the film window, point the other side of the light trap at a bright light source. This is best done inside and shielding your eyes from the light source. If you see any light come throught the slot where the slide goes, you've got problems. Take the back to a Hasselblad certified tech and have the traps replaced. > In any event, later today or tomorrow I'm going to load both > backs, take the camera outside and shoot two rolls of pictures of > the saguaro that's across the street from my house, develop the film > and get to the bottom of this. And send BOTH backs in to get > repaired. Try pointing the slide side to and away from the sun, too. Also, before advancing the film, cover the slide slot with opaque tape, then shoot a couple frames, remove the tape, and shoot a couple more. If there is a leak, the "taped" frames won't be fogged. Another thing occurred to me. Are the light streaks mostly along one or both edges of the negs and fairly continuous, and mostly from the middle to the end of the roll? If they are, then, the film is not rolling up tightly on the take up spool, and light is leaking around the edges of the spindle. Inside, the light isn't strong enough to fog the film, but outside, in bright daylight, it is. Anyway, Good Luck... -- Patrick Bartek (NoLife Polymath Group) bartek@skylink.net http://www.skylink.net/~bartek ------------------------------ Date: 29 Jan 98 16:35:56 +0800 From: "Patrick Bartek" To: hasselblad@kelvin.net Subject: Auto Fill Flash Message-ID: <34D0AFEC.MD-0.198.bartek@skylink.net> Much has been posted on this mail list about fill flash and how to make it easier. Here's my method for an auto flash. Once setup, it is almost totally automatic. (see 4a for exception) AUTO FILL FLASH 1. Set the flash to AUTO. Set the film speed on the flash 2 to 4 times the speed of the film you're shooting with. I use 4 times for most bright, sunny days. It looks more natural. 2. Check the f-stop scale on the flash to see what auto f-stops you have available, and pick one. 3. Set the SAME f-stop on the camera and pick the shutter speed that gives the proper ambient light exposure. 4. If you set the film speed on the flash at 2 times normal (a 1:2 fill), stop down the lens one stop without changing the shutter speed; if 3 times (a 1:3 fill), stop down 1/2 stop; if 4 times (a 1:4 fill), don't stop down at all. 4a. For backlit subjects ONLY, open up an additional 1 stop from #4 without changing the shutter speed. Remember to reset the f-stop when subject is NOT backlit. 5. Shoot your pictures and get auto-fill flash. NOTE: If you want to use this technique with a 35mm camera or any camera with a focal plane shutter, don't set the shutter speed higher than the highest flash sync speed. Adjust the f-stop on the flash and camera accordingly, but make sure than the f-stop settings are equal to start with. Still do Step 4, though, to compensate for the additional light from the flash. -- Patrick Bartek (NoLife Polymath Group) bartek@skylink.net http://www.skylink.net/~bartek ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 30 Jan 1998 10:11:16 -0800 From: Dave Munroe To: hasselblad@kelvin.net Subject: Sa multicoating and the UV Sonnar Message-ID: <34D217C4.17C0@vcd.hp.com> Stephen O Gombosi wrote: > My main quibble was with the statement that > the 250 Sa was optimized for a narrow range of wavelengths, when the > opposite is in fact the case. However, I decided to call Hasselblad USA > and settle the matter. I spoke to a gentleman by the name of Mark > Brittig (I hope I'm not mangling his name too badly). He told me that > the 250 Sa is not T* coated, but the new 350 Sa CFE *is*. I have no idea > why one is multicoated and the other is not. Right... my comments in the lens guide were misleading and the next revision will be worded more accurately. The 250 Sa is optimized for 400nm to 1000 nm (the entire visible spectrum plus some of the infrared. According to the latest _Hasselblad Manual_, the type of multicoating used in the T* process is not effective over such a broad range and therefore a single layer coating is used. If I remember the paragraph in the book correctly, this single layer reduces internal reflections down to 1.5%. [re: UV Sonnar] > I think it's single-coated, but I'm not sure. I should've asked, but I > didn't want Mark getting excited at the prospect of selling a $15K (or > is it $20K these days?) lens. ;-) If anyone knows whether the UV is coated or not, please share the information with us. I'll have to check my Nikon handbook to see if the UV Nikkors are coated. regards, -Dave ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 30 Jan 1998 01:09:06 +0000 From: dannyg1 To: hasselblad@kelvin.net Subject: Re: Hasselblad Lens Guide - Update Message-ID: <34D12832.11EE@idt.net> Dave, > I > thought it would take a day or two of my time! The best two days spent yet. A great resource gets better again. Regards, Danny Gonzalez ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 30 Jan 1998 13:38:28 +0000 From: dannyg1 To: hasselblad@kelvin.net Subject: Re: Sa multicoating and the UV Sonnar Message-ID: <34D1D7D4.1E0C@idt.net> Dave, > If anyone knows whether the UV is coated or not, please share the > information with us. The UV lenses are made of natural, polished quartz elements. I doubt that these will survive multicoating without cracking. I also doubt they're coated at all. Regards, Danny Gonzalez ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 30 Jan 1998 09:27:00 -0800 (PST) From: "Klosky, Peter - MS MAIL" To: hasselblad Subject: Re: Hasselblad Lens Guide - Update Message-ID: <34D21210@cdigate.cdi.marconi.ca> Is there any information in the lens guide about filter sizes? Did I miss this part? ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 30 Jan 1998 08:49:28 +0800 From: "Douglas St.Denny" To: hasselblad@kelvin.net Subject: Re: Leaky backs--Have the felt replaced--a 15 minute deal, Message-ID: <34D12396.BC3@hkabc.net> (referring to the light barrier FELT for Hasselblad backs...) Martin Krieger wrote: > > which I believe Hasselblad will send you and you can do it yourself, too. > Not here in Hong Kong they won't. I tried. I even had the official part numbers. They would not even listen. They wanted about US$60 per back to do the job. Not a complete service, just the light barriers. I had it done by a local repair guy. He charge me US$25 and serviced the backs at the same time. I'm now ready for another couple of years shooting....I hope. Douglas St.Denny Hong Kong ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 30 Jan 1998 20:11:28 -0500 (EST) From: RBucha7924@aol.com To: dannyg1@idt.net, hasselblad@kelvin.net Subject: Re: Re: Hasselblad Lens Guide - Update Message-ID: <980130201127_1853804500@mrin39.mx> Well great, I saved, but apparently my computer didn't (always easier to blame an inatimate object). Could you please repost the lens guide. Thanks. -Rick ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 31 Jan 1998 05:37:21 +0100 From: Håkan Gunnarsson To: hasselblad@kelvin.net Subject: Re: Sa multicoating and the UV Sonnar Message-ID: <34D2AA81.52CF@mailer.student.gu.se> Dave Munroe wrote: > If anyone knows whether the UV is coated or not, please share the > information with us. I'll have to check my Nikon handbook to see if > the UV Nikkors are coated. >=20 > regards, >=20 > -Dave > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- It's easy to find out. E-mail Hasselblad, they are very helpful: info@hasselblad.se H=E5kan Gunnarsson G=F6teborg, Sweden > The Hasselblad Users Group Listserv is a public service of Absolute Int= ernet, Inc., which is not responsible for its content. >=20 > This mailing list is in no way affiliated with Victor Hasselblad AB, it= 's subsidiaries, or affiliates. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 31 Jan 1998 13:23:02 +0800 From: Chris LI To: hasselblad@kelvin.net Subject: Re: Spot metering Message-ID: <3.0.5.32.19980131132302.007decb0@is1.hk.super.net> At 03:32 PM 30/1/98 +0100, you wrote: >Can the spot-metering of the new PME90 metering prism be used together >with a focusing screen that has microprisms and split-image in the >center ? I would like to know that before I change to one of these fancy >new focusing screens. > Ulrik, Yes, you can use the spot metering of the PME90 with 42215 Acute-Matte D microprism/spilt-image screen so long as the maximum effective aperture of the lens or lens + teleconverter in use is f/5.6 or larger. Regards Chris LI ------------------------------ End of hasselblad V1 #86 ************************ ---------------------------------------------------------------------- The Hasselblad Users Group Listserv is a public service of Absolute Internet, Inc., which is not responsible for its content. This mailing list is in no way affiliated with Victor Hasselblad AB, it's subsidiaries, or affiliates.