hasselblad Mon, 21 Aug 2000 Volume 1 : Number 964 In this issue: Close up with little money Re: Close up with little money SV: Close up with little money Re: Close up with little money Re: Close up with little money RE: 500 ELM/ELX Re: 500 ELM/ELX RE: Close up with little money flash sync insanity Re: Gossen Luna-Pro digital... RE: hassy 203fe question Gossen Luna-Pro digital... RE: Gossen Luna-Pro digital... RE: flash sync insanity RE: Gossen Luna-Pro digital... Re: 500 ELM/ELX Re: vote for B&H, please Re: vote for B&H, please OT Omega Enlarger aligning film and heat RE: OT Omega Enlarger aligning Re: 500 ELM/ELX Re: film and heat Re: lens distortion, buildings falling over FW: unsubscribe FW: RE: Unsubscribe FW: Unsubscribe FW: unsubscribe FW: unsubscribe FW: unsubscribe ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2000 01:39:50 -0600 From: Patrick San Agustin To: Subject: Close up with little money Message-ID: Does anybody know the cheapest means to get a 1:1 magnification with a simple proxars and/or extension tubes? I would like to do some macro photos but dont want to buy a 135mm with bellows. I have a 501c with 50/80/150 lenses. Would all 3 hassy proxars be able to get the magnification that I want with any of these lenses? And if so, at what cost to image quality? I do not have The Hasselblad Manual yet but looking for it as I write this. Peace. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2000 00:58:44 -0700 From: Mark Rabiner To: hasselblad@kelvin.net Subject: Re: Close up with little money Message-ID: <399F8FB3.FC633325@rabiner.cncoffice.com> Patrick San Agustin wrote: > > Does anybody know the cheapest means to get a 1:1 magnification with a > simple proxars and/or extension tubes? I would like to do some macro photos > but dont want to buy a 135mm with bellows. I have a 501c with 50/80/150 > lenses. Would all 3 hassy proxars be able to get the magnification that I > want with any of these lenses? And if so, at what cost to image quality? I > do not have The Hasselblad Manual yet but looking for it as I write this. > > Peace. > On my Hasselblad close-up Calculator it says a 56 tube on an 80 CF will get you almost 1:1. A .8 magnification. You can get 1:1 on an 80F lens though with a 56 and a 16 because it racs out further. Put a Proxar on that perhaps? To get it with a 150 it implies you need a varible extention tube which is not made anymore. Seems you can do anything with a bellows. Nothing wider than a 80mm lens is on the slider. Mark William Rabiner ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2000 10:11:15 +0200 From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?ULF_SJ=D6GREN?= To: Subject: SV: Close up with little money Message-ID: <000b01c00a7e$36e1d220$067197d4@s101194> Here is a little advice that will give you approx 1,8 :1 magnifaction = with the equipment you have, but you have to invest $2 or so in a roll = of tape. This is NO joke. Attach the 150 mm lens to the camera. Turn the = 80 mm lens front to front with the Sonnar and tape them together that = way. Two turns of nontransparent tape is enough. Now you have a very = good macro lens, constructed as those lenses generally are. The Planar = shutter/diafragm shall not be touched, that is leave the f at 2.8, all = exposure corrections are made on the Sonnar lens. The planar "steals" = approx. 2 steps but so does the ext. tube..... Use this 2 step reduction = as a "rule of thumb. If you have a finder with built-in metering it is = of course no problems. Of course this can be made with all kind of combination but older = Distagon lenses must be avoided as the front lens can get scratched. Good luck Ulf Sj=F6gren=20 Sweden ----- Ursprungligt meddelande -----=20 Fr=E5n: "Patrick San Agustin" Till: Skickat: den 20 augusti 2000 09:39 =C4mne: Close up with little money > Does anybody know the cheapest means to get a 1:1 magnification with a > simple proxars and/or extension tubes? I would like to do some macro = photos > but dont want to buy a 135mm with bellows. I have a 501c with = 50/80/150 > lenses. Would all 3 hassy proxars be able to get the magnification = that I > want with any of these lenses? And if so, at what cost to image = quality? I > do not have The Hasselblad Manual yet but looking for it as I write = this. >=20 > Peace. >=20 > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- >=20 > The Hasselblad Users Group Listserv is a public service of Absolute = Internet, Inc., which is not responsible for its content. This mailing = list is in no way affiliated with Victor Hasselblad AB, it's = subsidiaries, or affiliates. >=20 > To change your subscription status, go to: = http://mail.kelvin.net/guest/RemoteListSummary/Hasselblad > Digest archives are stored at = http://www.kelvin.net/hasselblad/hassy.htm > Searchable archives can be found at = http://www.listquest.com/arts/index.html >=20 ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2000 11:05:52 +0200 From: "Q.G. de Bakker" To: Subject: Re: Close up with little money Message-ID: <001501c00a85$d8807800$83dbf1c3@qnu99> Patrick San Agustin wrote: > Does anybody know the cheapest means to get a 1:1 magnification with a > simple proxars and/or extension tubes? I would like to do some macro photos > but dont want to buy a 135mm with bellows. I have a 501c with 50/80/150 > lenses. Would all 3 hassy proxars be able to get the magnification that I > want with any of these lenses? And if so, at what cost to image quality? I > do not have The Hasselblad Manual yet but looking for it as I write this. Two extension tubes will get you to 1:1 using the 80 mm: you will need 80 mm extra extension, taking into account the approx. 8 mm extension of the 80 mm lens, tubes 16 and 56 will take you there. The 80 mm Planar design is very well suited to do macro-photography. Using both 50 mm and 150 mm lenses is not a good idea. The 150 mm will need 150 mm extra extension, so you would definitely need the bellows. The 50 mm lens needs less extension (yes, 50 mm :-)), but, it being a retrofocus lens, you will find there is very little working distance left, the subject almost touching the lens. But it can be done. And the retrofocus design also means less quality at close range (even with floating elements). I don't know about the Proxars, but generally, using close-up attachments will degrade image quality, getting worse with increasing strength/magnification. Though some might disagree with this. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2000 11:19:59 +0200 From: "Q.G. de Bakker" To: , Subject: Re: Close up with little money Message-ID: <001a01c00a87$d17bfb40$83dbf1c3@qnu99> Mark Rabiner wrote: > Patrick San Agustin wrote: > > > > Does anybody know the cheapest means to get a 1:1 magnification with a > > simple proxars and/or extension tubes? I would like to do some macro photos > > but dont want to buy a 135mm with bellows. I have a 501c with 50/80/150 > > lenses. Would all 3 hassy proxars be able to get the magnification that I > > want with any of these lenses? And if so, at what cost to image quality? I > > do not have The Hasselblad Manual yet but looking for it as I write this. > > > On my Hasselblad close-up Calculator it says a 56 tube on an 80 CF will get you > almost 1:1. A .8 magnification. You can get 1:1 on an 80F lens though with a 56 > and a 16 because it racs out further. Yes, because it will give you 72 mm of extension, leaving you only 8 mm short from the 80 mm you'll need to get to 1:1. The lens itself can provide this extra extension. Extension and magnification can be easily calculated without slider by multiplying the focal length by the desired magnification. For instance 1:2 magnification using a 80 mm lens will need 1:2 = 0.5 * 80 = 40 mm extension. And a 32 mm extension using a 80 mm lens will give 32 / 80 = 0.4 (1:2.5) magnification. > Put a Proxar on that perhaps? > To get it with a 150 it implies you need a varible extention tube which is not > made anymore. The variable extension tube had a maximum extension of 63,5 mm, far too short to give you 1:1 using a 150 mm lens, even when using the 21 mm added extension the lens will give you. You'll need the bellows, or an additional stack of extension tubes. > Seems you can do anything with a bellows. Using a bellows and 80 mm will start you off at 1:1.25 (0.8x) magnification, so you'll miss the very usefull range upto this magnification. > Nothing wider than a 80mm lens is on the slider. That's because using anything wider is not a good idea. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2000 12:02:37 +0200 From: "Eduard Crombie" To: , Subject: RE: 500 ELM/ELX Message-ID: [snip] > From: Mark Rabiner > > Eduard Crombie wrote: > > > > Good evening Andreas, > > > > I don't know if the originals are or are not still available at > > Hasselblad Sweden. > > > I think Varta is going to keep making these babies for quite a while. > both of mine still work! > Mark William Rabiner > Hi Mark, Good old Varta, he! I think they must have the most diversified production set-up of all the battery producers. I'm also almost sure these Hassy type accu's have other uses, maybe in portable measuring or portable medical equipment. One of the other solutions I have been thinking of (in case the originals or equivalents would become completely unavailable) was something with a cable (preferably coiled) between, or the right hand connector, or using the connection plate of the psu-unit, and a belt pouch filled with three 2V sealed lead acid cells (I was thinking about the Gates Cyclon types they use in remote controlled model boats and cars - they come in 2Ah and 5Ah and maybe some other capacities) who are not much bigger than the Deac accu's. Sony used them also in their "portable" (abt. 5kg) video recorders of the eighties. If you put six of them in series you can start a car (the Powerhouse type units) :-) Of course, constructing this would also provide possibilities for creativeness and ingenuity. Imagine, Mark, your Hassy with a threefold or eightfold power capacity. Despite the extra cable and belt job. But portable pro video cameramen do it this way all the time. Take care, Eduard Crombie. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2000 12:14:59 +0200 From: "Q.G. de Bakker" To: , Subject: Re: 500 ELM/ELX Message-ID: <00c801c00a8f$80a87a60$83dbf1c3@qnu99> Mark Rabiner wrote: > I think Varta is going to keep making these babies for quite a while. > both of mine still work! Now i'm confused! Wasn't it just because Varta (the original supplier) no longer produces these batteries that there is a problem? ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2000 06:15:22 -0700 From: "Frank Filippone" To: Subject: RE: Close up with little money Message-ID: <002301c00aa8$b23b7b40$c73ffea9@ELNred735i> If I read the correct information on the diopters ( Proxar ) ..... it would take a 500mm lens to use a .5 Proxar and obtain 1:1 results. This is at least impractical. Use the extension tuibe idea suggested before, or..... Use the .5 Proxar and ENLARGE the negative. A 80mm lens used with the .5 Proxar will produce a 1:6 reproduction. Enlarge to 1:1. ( a 150 lens plus the same Proxar will produce a 1:3 negative ) An easy way to get all the scaling correct is to photograph a rule. Develop, etc. WHen printing, compare the projected rule against the original rule. When the images coincide, your repro ratio is giving you a 1:1 ratio. Keep the enlarger at the same height and all further enlargements will be right.0 Proxars are additive, but with further image deterioration. Using a .5 + 1.0 will give you a combined 0.333. Reproduction ratio to the negative will give about a 1:5. Not really worth the extra cost for the small gain over the extra enlargement. Frank Filippone red735i@earthlink.net ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2000 16:32:09 -0400 From: "Marcus J. Ranum" To: hasselblad@kelvin.net Subject: flash sync insanity Message-ID: <4.3.1.2.20000819162937.00a7d790@localhost> I've got a 500CX with a 150mm(sonnar) on it. When I try to shoot with it hooked to my flash rig (a speedotron black line) it will NOT fire the flash when there is film in the camera. It's driving me nuts because I don't _think_ there's any kind of interconnection that tells it whether there's actually film in the camera - IS THERE? I've changed lenses: same result. If I use a different back: same result. If I use my 35mm camera, the flash fires perfectly. If I use my flash meter to control it, the flash fires perfectly. I've swapped cables. This is driving me insane; I've wasted 5 rolls of film trying to debug the problem. I'm at wits end. Can anyone offer advice? mjr.(email to me, since I am not on the list) --- Marcus J. Ranum Chief Technology Officer, Network Flight Recorder, Inc. Work: http://www.nfr.net Play: http://pubweb.nfr.net/~mjr ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2000 16:40:46 -0400 From: Neil Gordon To: hasselblad@kelvin.net Subject: Re: Gossen Luna-Pro digital... Message-ID: <399EF0CF.A7C0FD45@concentric.net> Re: Luna Pro Digital I've been using the Luna-Pro digital F for several months and find it to be my favorite meter (I also own a Gossen Luna Pro F and Minolta Spotmeter F). Aside from the fact that it can be used in either reflected or incident modes it is light weight and has an easy to read display. Filter factors are easily programmed and one can measure the contrast range of the subject simply by holding the measurement button and scanning the subject. The contrast range is displayed at the bottom of the window. I use mine for flash readings both with or without the synch cord. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2000 10:47:59 -0400 From: kswong@sp.ml.com To: hasselblad@kelvin.net Subject: RE: hassy 203fe question Message-ID: <200008201447.KAA14276@sophie.sp.ml.com> <<[Austin] It is probably the 'pin cushion' distortion that was causing the difference the original poster was seeing. Since we don't know the exact setup, nor have seen the results...we really can't say.>> I, was the original poster for the slanted buildings. Actually, the more I think about it... it is actually the tilting. Cause I was trying to put the whole building in the square while the Mamiya 645 is different. Sorry for all the confusion. Also reference to the 203 issues, the metering is 20% averaging. But my 205 is 1% spot metering and maybe the exposures is different. Just a thought. But with the metering on the Mamiya 645 and 205, 205 gives more acurate metering. I also compare it with the Sekonic L-508 and 205 agrees with it. The Mamiya 645 Pro did not. Have a good Sunday. KS ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2000 14:54:02 GMT From: "michael blackburn" To: hasselblad@kelvin.net Subject: Gossen Luna-Pro digital... Message-ID: Does anyone out there have a Gossen Luna-Pro Digital meter? I am looking for a small (no flash meter needed) carry around meter. This meter seems to be pretty nice... I have one. It is very light and slim, fits in the shirt top pocket, nice :) It does incident and reflected light readings, no spot adapter available ( as there is with the lunasix 3)all modes you need. There is, in fact, a flash version for about DM 100 more (about $50) I like it a lot, accurate and very light. Regards, Mike Blackburn ...Here in the Black Forest ________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2000 10:17:39 -0600 From: "Wilfred von Dauster" To: Subject: RE: Gossen Luna-Pro digital... Message-ID: <000001c00ac2$2912b940$89041f26@fsl.noaa.gov> Hi All, Please allow me to add my praise for the Gossen Luna Pro Digital (non-F, in my case). An excellent and reliable product, which gives me consistently accurate results with chromes shot though my recently calibrated Hassy, as well as other cameras. I have no complaints at all about this meter, which I've had for about four years now. Will von Dauster ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2000 12:12:54 -0400 From: "Bruce Wilson" To: Subject: RE: flash sync insanity Message-ID: You didn't say what happens with an empty back installed or with no back in place. -----Original Message----- From: Marcus J. Ranum [mailto:mjr@nfr.net] Sent: Saturday, August 19, 2000 4:32 PM To: hasselblad@kelvin.net Subject: flash sync insanity I've got a 500CX with a 150mm(sonnar) on it. When I try to shoot with it hooked to my flash rig (a speedotron black line) it will NOT fire the flash when there is film in the camera. It's driving me nuts because I don't _think_ there's any kind of interconnection that tells it whether there's actually film in the camera - IS THERE? I've changed lenses: same result. If I use a different back: same result. If I use my 35mm camera, the flash fires perfectly. If I use my flash meter to control it, the flash fires perfectly. I've swapped cables. This is driving me insane; I've wasted 5 rolls of film trying to debug the problem. I'm at wits end. Can anyone offer advice? mjr.(email to me, since I am not on the list) --- Marcus J. Ranum Chief Technology Officer, Network Flight Recorder, Inc. Work: http://www.nfr.net Play: http://pubweb.nfr.net/~mjr ---------------------------------------------------------------------- The Hasselblad Users Group Listserv is a public service of Absolute Internet, Inc., which is not responsible for its content. This mailing list is in no way affiliated with Victor Hasselblad AB, it's subsidiaries, or affiliates. To change your subscription status, go to: http://mail.kelvin.net/guest/RemoteListSummary/Hasselblad Digest archives are stored at http://www.kelvin.net/hasselblad/hassy.htm Searchable archives can be found at http://www.listquest.com/arts/index.html ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2000 12:27:18 -0400 From: Austin Franklin To: "'hasselblad@kelvin.net'" Subject: RE: Gossen Luna-Pro digital... Message-ID: <01C00AA3.02A30900@user-2ive09f.dialup.mindspring.com> Thanks to all those who replied to my RFI (Request For Information) on this product. Based on all the praise for this meter, I will order one Monday! ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2000 12:37:44 -0400 From: Henry Posner/B&H Photo-Video To: Subject: Re: 500 ELM/ELX Message-ID: <4.2.0.58.20000820123723.00970880@bnhpop1.bhphotovideo.com> At 12:59 AM 8/17/2000 -0700, you wrote: >Yes, but who sells these Motor Drives here in the Statee....and how much for >one? B&H sells Apcam & prices are on our site. regards, Henry Posner/B&H Photo-Video ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2000 12:40:03 -0400 From: Henry Posner/B&H Photo-Video To: Subject: Re: vote for B&H, please Message-ID: <4.2.0.58.20000820123855.00976840@bnhpop1.bhphotovideo.com> At 12:59 AM 8/17/2000 -0700, you wrote: >Henry. I just don't like your SPAM, so.... One message to this group hardly constitutes spam, but if it bothered you I am sorry that you were bothered. Funny, I posted to the Nikon digest too, with more than 10 times as many members as this group and received only the most friendly replies. regards, Henry Posner/B&H Photo-Video ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2000 19:18:13 +0200 From: "Q.G. de Bakker" To: Subject: Re: vote for B&H, please Message-ID: <000801c00aca$a23f41a0$9adef1c3@qnu99> Henry Posner/B&H Photo-Video wrote: > One message to this group hardly constitutes spam, but if it bothered you I > am sorry that you were bothered. Funny, I posted to the Nikon digest too, > with more than 10 times as many members as this group and received only the > most friendly replies. SPAM isn't measured by amount but by content. If you are so popular, why do you need our vote? ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2000 15:32:27 -0400 From: Simon Stevens To: hasselblad@kelvin.net Subject: OT Omega Enlarger aligning Message-ID: <39A0324B.55933452@camera-craftsman.com> Does anybody happen to know if and how an Omega D2V can be adjusted and aligned? I see all kinds of bolts on mine, but none which are obviously designed to allow componants to be aligned. Thanks! Simon Stevens ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2000 18:31:31 -0500 From: "Tom Miller" To: Subject: film and heat Message-ID: Could someone tell me what kind of effects heat would have on fuji 220 film 800 iso left in a car during the heat of a summer day in texas for 5 hours. tom ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2000 20:11:50 -0400 From: Austin Franklin To: "'hasselblad@kelvin.net'" Subject: RE: OT Omega Enlarger aligning Message-ID: <01C00AE3.6D8E7340@user-2ive09f.dialup.mindspring.com> Check out this web site: http://classic-enlargers.com/ ---------- From: Simon Stevens Sent: Sunday, August 20, 2000 3:32 PM To: hasselblad@kelvin.net Subject: OT Omega Enlarger aligning Does anybody happen to know if and how an Omega D2V can be adjusted and aligned? I see all kinds of bolts on mine, but none which are obviously designed to allow componants to be aligned. ------------------------------ Date: 21 Aug 2000 00:49:22 -0000 From: "Roger Urban" To: hasselblad@kelvin.net Subject: Re: 500 ELM/ELX Message-ID: <20000821004922.22751.qmail@musone.chek.com> Thanks for the info, Henry! On Sun, 20 Aug 2000 12:37:44 -0400 Henry Posner/B&H Photo-Video wrote: >At 12:59 AM 8/17/2000 -0700, you wrote: >>Yes, but who sells these Motor Drives here in the Statee....and how much for >>one? > >B&H sells Apcam & prices are on our site. > >regards, > >Henry Posner/B&H Photo-Video >---------------------------------------------------------------------- > >The Hasselblad Users Group Listserv is a public service of Absolute Internet, Inc., which is not responsible for its content. This mailing list is in no way affiliated with Victor Hasselblad AB, it's subsidiaries, or affiliates. > >To change your subscription status, go to: http://mail.kelvin.net/guest/RemoteListSummary/Hasselblad >Digest archives are stored at http://www.kelvin.net/hasselblad/hassy.htm >Searchable archives can be found at http://www.listquest.com/arts/index.html > hey. sign up for a free bigdeal email account (yourname@bigdeal.com). you get updates on specials, promos, news and other junk- you can sign up at http://www.bigdeal.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2000 20:04:38 -0700 From: Mark Rabiner To: hasselblad@kelvin.net Subject: Re: film and heat Message-ID: <39A09C46.B1730026@rabiner.cncoffice.com> Tom Miller wrote: > > Could someone tell me what kind of effects heat would have on fuji 220 film > 800 iso left in a car during the heat of a summer day in texas for 5 hours. > tom > A dark car in direct sunlight can get incredibly hot, way over a hundred degrees. At minimum you'll get bad color cross over and the lubrication in any equipment you've got in there will dry out. You are baking your stuff. My film and cameras go where I go, live where I live, breathe the same air i breath. Mark William Rabiner ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2000 22:01:55 -0700 From: Jim Brick To: Subject: Re: lens distortion, buildings falling over Message-ID: <200008210503.WAA25354@spoon.alink.net> At 12:49 PM 8/19/00 +0200, Q.G. de Bakker wrote: >kswong@sp.ml.com wrote: > >> [...] Hassy tends to show tall buildings slanted via Mamiya on 645 does >> not. Both shooting under same lighting conditions and distance using the >> same tripod. > >Slanted buildings? That would be a perspective effect, i.e. due to the >position and attitude of the camera, and thus not due to the lens at all. > It is dependent upon the image size which is a direct result of the focal length of the lens. A 50mm lens on both cameras photographing the same building from the same distance at the same perspective, both having, say, 50mm of vertical image size on the film, will have identical looking buildings. To be exactly equal, the long side of the 645 has to be oriented equal the 6cm Hasselblad orientation to cover the particular subject. You cannot compare the 4.5 side with the Hasselblad unless the image size is less than 4.5 CM. Or you could use a 645 back on the Hasselblad and no matter what you do, as long as the lens focal lengths are the same, the "distortion" in the resulting photographs will be exactly the same. If they are not, then the lens manufacturer is lying about the focal length. Perhaps the 50mm on the Mamiya is more like 54mm and the 50mm on the Hasselblad is more like 47mm... The only way you will be able to tell is to actually accurately measure the size of the building image on the film. If they are exactly the same, the distortion will be exactly the same. If you stop and think about it, a particular millimeter lens produces an exact image size, on any size film, of an object that is a certain distance away. An 80mm lens will produce an exact image size of a person standing 20 feet away. The film size is immaterial. It could be a ground glass and no film. When the person stands a hundred feet away, he/she produces, again, an exact image size on the film plane (still using the same 80mm lens). Now it doesn't make any difference which camera you use. A Leica & 80mm, a Hasselblad & 80mm, a 4x5 view camera & 80mm. It doesn't matter. They all produce the exact same image size on their film. You may not get all of the person at 20 feet with the Leica. You will get all of the person with the Hasselblad, and all of the person plus gobs of background with the 4x5. But the person will be the same size on all pieces of film. Likewise, when the person is standing a hundred feet away. He/she will be the same size across all film formats. It's the lens focal length and distance to subject that produces the image size. So if you are photographing a building from the same distance, with two cameras, the same focal length lens on both cameras, and the camera is tilted up so that the whole building is in view. This means that the front entrance (bottom) of the building (200 meters away) is the same size on both films (each camera) and the top of the building (800 meters away) will be the same size on both camera films. So the perspective distortion (top of the building looking smaller than the bottom of the building which makes the building look like it is falling over) is exactly the same on ANY camera using an 80mm lens, or any millimeter lens, as long as they are the same across all cameras taking the photograph. Jim ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000 08:01:03 +0200 From: "Blyth, Graham" To: hasselblad@kelvin.net Subject: FW: unsubscribe Message-ID: <71B5FDF2DDD6D211892B00105AC31DF994F34B@BVEXSA01> unsubscribe > -----Original Message----- > From: Bruce Wilson [SMTP:brucewilson@mail.com] > Sent: Sunday, August 20, 2000 6:13 PM > To: hasselblad@kelvin.net > Subject: RE: flash sync insanity > > > You didn't say what happens with an empty back installed or with no back > in > place. > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Marcus J. Ranum [mailto:mjr@nfr.net] > Sent: Saturday, August 19, 2000 4:32 PM > To: hasselblad@kelvin.net > Subject: flash sync insanity > > > I've got a 500CX with a 150mm(sonnar) on it. When I try to > shoot with it hooked to my flash rig (a speedotron black line) > it will NOT fire the flash when there is film in the camera. > It's driving me nuts because I don't _think_ there's any kind > of interconnection that tells it whether there's actually > film in the camera - IS THERE? I've changed lenses: same > result. If I use a different back: same result. If I use my 35mm > camera, the flash fires perfectly. If I use my flash meter to > control it, the flash fires perfectly. I've swapped cables. > > This is driving me insane; I've wasted 5 rolls of film trying > to debug the problem. I'm at wits end. Can anyone offer > advice? > > mjr.(email to me, since I am not on the list) > --- > Marcus J. Ranum Chief Technology Officer, Network Flight Recorder, > Inc. > Work: http://www.nfr.net > Play: http://pubweb.nfr.net/~mjr > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > The Hasselblad Users Group Listserv is a public service of Absolute > Internet, Inc., which is not responsible for its content. This mailing > list > is in no way affiliated with Victor Hasselblad AB, it's subsidiaries, or > affiliates. > > To change your subscription status, go to: > http://mail.kelvin.net/guest/RemoteListSummary/Hasselblad > Digest archives are stored at http://www.kelvin.net/hasselblad/hassy.htm > Searchable archives can be found at > http://www.listquest.com/arts/index.html > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > The Hasselblad Users Group Listserv is a public service of Absolute > Internet, Inc., which is not responsible for its content. This mailing > list is in no way affiliated with Victor Hasselblad AB, it's subsidiaries, > or affiliates. > > To change your subscription status, go to: > http://mail.kelvin.net/guest/RemoteListSummary/Hasselblad > Digest archives are stored at http://www.kelvin.net/hasselblad/hassy.htm > Searchable archives can be found at > http://www.listquest.com/arts/index.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000 08:11:20 +0200 From: "Blyth, Graham" To: hasselblad@kelvin.net Subject: FW: RE: Unsubscribe Message-ID: <71B5FDF2DDD6D211892B00105AC31DF994F34D@BVEXSA01> Unsubscribe > -----Original Message----- > From: DavidG6028@aol.com [SMTP:DavidG6028@aol.com] > Sent: Sunday, August 20, 2000 7:50 AM > To: hasselblad@kelvin.net > Subject: Re: RE: hassy 203fe question > > > In a message dated 8/19/00 4:48:35 PM, austin@darkroom.com writes: > > << [Austin] It is probably the 'pin cushion' distortion that was causing > the > difference the original poster was seeing. Since we don't know the exact > setup, nor have seen the results...we really can't say. > >> > > I would be very surprised if the "pin cushion" distortion on a Zeiss 50mm > lens was visibly worse than an equivalent Mamiya lens. Even if it MEASURED > > worse than the Mamiya. > > >there is only one big difference in output with the > >50mm. Hassy tends to show tall buildings slanted via Mamiya on 645 does > >not. Both shooting under same lighting conditions and distance using the > >same tripod. > > Maybe the 645 is shooting the same photo in the "panorama" orientation, > and > the natural perspective effect of a 50mm (wide angle) lens is "masked" > somewhat by the top of the frame being cropped off (comparing the ~ 6 x > 4.5 > of the Mamiya to the ~ 6 x 6 of the Hasselblad). > > Otherwise, return that 50!!! > > David G. > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > The Hasselblad Users Group Listserv is a public service of Absolute > Internet, Inc., which is not responsible for its content. This mailing > list is in no way affiliated with Victor Hasselblad AB, it's subsidiaries, > or affiliates. > > To change your subscription status, go to: > http://mail.kelvin.net/guest/RemoteListSummary/Hasselblad > Digest archives are stored at http://www.kelvin.net/hasselblad/hassy.htm > Searchable archives can be found at > http://www.listquest.com/arts/index.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000 08:14:40 +0200 From: "Blyth, Graham" To: hasselblad@kelvin.net Cc: bigleo@worldnet.att.net Subject: FW: Unsubscribe Message-ID: <71B5FDF2DDD6D211892B00105AC31DF994F34E@BVEXSA01> unsubscribe > -----Original Message----- > From: DavidG6028@AOL.COM [SMTP:DavidG6028@AOL.COM] > Sent: Sunday, August 20, 2000 7:14 AM > To: bigleo@worldnet.att.net; hasselblad@kelvin.net > Subject: Re: Hasselblad Lens Tilt > > > In a message dated 8/18/00 7:19:40 AM, bigleo@worldnet.att.net writes: > > << What about the 1.4x Shift-Mutar? >> > > From the Hasselblad literature: > "The PC-Mutar 1.4x is a unique accessory which adds perspective control to > > your lenses between 40 and 100mm focal lengths. You can shift the lens +/- > > 16mm, and photograph tall subjects without tilting the camera, which would > > distort the image. The PC-Mutar opens up new horizons, especially in > architectural photography. It extends the focal lengths by a factor of > 1.4. > Used with the CF 40 lens, the total focal length is 56mm..." > > So, with the 40 you can obtain camera "movements" with either the > Flexbody, > or (to a lesser degree) with the PC-Mutar. Neither solution is going to > replace view cameras, but may fulfill the needs of specific individuals. > > David G. > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > The Hasselblad Users Group Listserv is a public service of Absolute > Internet, Inc., which is not responsible for its content. This mailing > list is in no way affiliated with Victor Hasselblad AB, it's subsidiaries, > or affiliates. > > To change your subscription status, go to: > http://mail.kelvin.net/guest/RemoteListSummary/Hasselblad > Digest archives are stored at http://www.kelvin.net/hasselblad/hassy.htm > Searchable archives can be found at > http://www.listquest.com/arts/index.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000 08:16:28 +0200 From: "Blyth, Graham" To: DavidG6028@aol.com Cc: hasselblad@kelvin.net Subject: FW: unsubscribe Message-ID: <71B5FDF2DDD6D211892B00105AC31DF994F34F@BVEXSA01> unsubscribe > -----Original Message----- > From: DavidG6028@aol.com [SMTP:DavidG6028@aol.com] > Sent: Sunday, August 20, 2000 6:54 AM > To: hasselblad@kelvin.net > Subject: Re: SV: 903swc vs 40mm. > > > In a message dated 8/18/00 6:45:45 AM, marcober@gate.net writes: > > << By the way...can the 903swc be conveniently used hand-held? What about > the > bubble level when one uses the camera w/o a tripod? Is this piece of > equipment intended to be used on support? > Thanks > M.B. >> > > Yes, you can easily use a 903 handheld. The reason the bubble level is > there > is so you can ensure the camera is LEVEL during architectural photography > ("leaning" buildings, etc). For general photography it certainly doesn't > REQUIRE any more support than the 40cfe would (remembering that critical > camera set-up always is enhanced by use of a tripod). > > David G. > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > The Hasselblad Users Group Listserv is a public service of Absolute > Internet, Inc., which is not responsible for its content. This mailing > list is in no way affiliated with Victor Hasselblad AB, it's subsidiaries, > or affiliates. > > To change your subscription status, go to: > http://mail.kelvin.net/guest/RemoteListSummary/Hasselblad > Digest archives are stored at http://www.kelvin.net/hasselblad/hassy.htm > Searchable archives can be found at > http://www.listquest.com/arts/index.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000 08:19:14 +0200 From: "Blyth, Graham" To: red735i@earthlink.net Cc: hasselblad@kelvin.net Subject: FW: unsubscribe Message-ID: <71B5FDF2DDD6D211892B00105AC31DF994F352@BVEXSA01> unsubscribe > -----Original Message----- > From: Frank Filippone [SMTP:red735i@earthlink.net] > Sent: Sunday, August 20, 2000 3:15 PM > To: hasselblad@kelvin.net > Subject: RE: Close up with little money > > If I read the correct information on the diopters ( Proxar ) ..... > it would take a 500mm lens to use a .5 Proxar and obtain 1:1 results. > This > is at least impractical. Use the extension tuibe idea suggested before, > or..... > > Use the .5 Proxar and ENLARGE the negative. A 80mm lens used with the .5 > Proxar will produce a 1:6 reproduction. Enlarge to 1:1. ( a 150 lens > plus the same Proxar will produce a 1:3 negative ) > > An easy way to get all the scaling correct is to photograph a rule. > Develop, etc. WHen printing, compare the projected rule against the > original rule. When the images coincide, your repro ratio is giving you a > 1:1 ratio. Keep the enlarger at the same height and all further > enlargements will be right.0 > > Proxars are additive, but with further image deterioration. Using a .5 + > 1.0 will give you a combined 0.333. Reproduction ratio to the negative > will > give about a 1:5. Not really worth the extra cost for the small gain over > the extra enlargement. > > Frank Filippone > red735i@earthlink.net > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > The Hasselblad Users Group Listserv is a public service of Absolute > Internet, Inc., which is not responsible for its content. This mailing > list is in no way affiliated with Victor Hasselblad AB, it's subsidiaries, > or affiliates. > > To change your subscription status, go to: > http://mail.kelvin.net/guest/RemoteListSummary/Hasselblad > Digest archives are stored at http://www.kelvin.net/hasselblad/hassy.htm > Searchable archives can be found at > http://www.listquest.com/arts/index.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000 08:22:57 +0200 From: "Blyth, Graham" To: henryp@bhphotovideo.com Cc: hasselblad@kelvin.net Subject: FW: unsubscribe Message-ID: <71B5FDF2DDD6D211892B00105AC31DF994F356@BVEXSA01> unsubscribe > -----Original Message----- > From: Henry Posner/B&H Photo-Video [SMTP:henryp@bhphotovideo.com] > Sent: Sunday, August 20, 2000 6:38 PM > To: hasselblad@kelvin.net > Subject: Re: 500 ELM/ELX > > At 12:59 AM 8/17/2000 -0700, you wrote: > >Yes, but who sells these Motor Drives here in the Statee....and how much > for > >one? > > B&H sells Apcam & prices are on our site. > > regards, > > Henry Posner/B&H Photo-Video > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > The Hasselblad Users Group Listserv is a public service of Absolute > Internet, Inc., which is not responsible for its content. This mailing > list is in no way affiliated with Victor Hasselblad AB, it's subsidiaries, > or affiliates. > > To change your subscription status, go to: > http://mail.kelvin.net/guest/RemoteListSummary/Hasselblad > Digest archives are stored at http://www.kelvin.net/hasselblad/hassy.htm > Searchable archives can be found at > http://www.listquest.com/arts/index.html ------------------------------ End of hasselblad V1 #964 ************************* ---------------------------------------------------------------------- The Hasselblad Users Group Listserv is a public service of Absolute Internet, Inc., which is not responsible for its content. This mailing list is in no way affiliated with Victor Hasselblad AB, it's subsidiaries, or affiliates. To change your subscription status, go to: http://mail.kelvin.net/guest/RemoteListSummary/Hasselblad Digest archives are stored at http://www.kelvin.net/hasselblad/hassy.htm Searchable archives can be found at http://www.listquest.com/arts/index.html